Forget the lawsuit..you will be out thousands more than repair cost...tow truck to another ford dealership not owned by the schister...use ford genuine parts unles your truck over 10 years..being 2013 model i would stick with ford parts....chinesse parts are just junk..only reason to go that route is if you are thinking of trade in within a year or 2...pay for repairs...never send another family member to that stealership....post on book of many faces to keep other people away...smile u did not spend thousands on a law suit that will take 2 years of your life....no way to ever prove rock went thru rad on your drive in for diff repair...your car can be released to you..that bs line it can not be released is stealership policy and not law...call local cops to arrive and keep the peace as it is towed off thre lot....enjoy your repaired truck
Yup, it's already published on lincoln.com:
If you click on "specifications" and scroll down, it gets you right there.
I compared the "regular" AWD (4,897 lbs.) to the GT (5,678 lbs.) since that's AWD as well. The difference is 781 lbs. which I rounded up a little...😉
It seems like a pretty specific number. It had to be published somewhere before. I don't recall seeing it myself but I'll admit I haven't been paying too much attention either. It's not something that's in my wheelhouse of interest.
I'm trying to figure out the geometry of how the fan, which has its blades canted away from the radiator to draw air away from the radiator, and is shrouded, to boot, could've flung a rock into the radiator. That story just doesn't pass the smell test.
Quite frankly, it sounds like a story made up by someone trying to cover his butt with someone who doesn't understand how engines work, and that someone buying it and trying to sell it to you.
U using gxl or txl wire or GPT (utter garbage) primary wire???...the inexpensive kits are usually crap components as well but it is what it is....you running a high amp altrernator???...u decided u needed a hi amp output alternar so the kids can watch marvin martian and replaced??....you use pliers for the crimp???...all the coin spent and you end up with 50 year old style packard (aka gm, delphi, aptiva) type 56 connector...the packard 56 style or 59 style connectors require a low resistance correct crimp....bottom line is wire ( looks like 10gauge) is pushing far in excess amp load then what it can safely handle..thus it creates mucho heat and u end up with a fire hazard (u carry a fire extingusher?).....buy proper crimp tool....what did you tap power from???...u follow directions or is instruction manual in mandarin chinesse??..u replace headlamps???...HID'S require amp draw above halogen..hence why they switch via relay (low current switch)...surprised you have not been blowing fuses...unless you put in a 50amp fuse in lieu of a 15amp???....retrace all your work and pay particular attention to wire size and how u hooked up the relay - reference supplied schematic if they syupplied.....then find correct forum for a post of this type...all we care about here is why ford needs to build a grocery getter bronco for city dwellers
I’ve used both mothers and griots. I prefer mother’s. I used griots last week on my new nautilus and it was much messier than mothers. Very sticky and goopy... I kept spaying it to keep it slick but it was pretty messy. It worked fine but mother’s is easier to work with... -perhaps I got a bad batch.