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Got a few questions here so thought I'd ask them all at once.

Have a '11 Vic base model and the local shop just did an evaluation telling me all the stuff that needs looked over...

1 - REAR DIFF FLUID DIRTY - I've changed out rear diff fluid once before on my Cherokee with the Chrysler 8.25 axle. Is doing this with the Vic about the same procedure?...Take off the diff cover and catch the fluid...drain and spray out diff with brake cleaner...clean the mating surface and replace plate with new gasket, then pump new diff fluid in the hole, then plug with stopper? It's a simple procedure on the Jeep. I'm just wondering if there's any hiccups I need to be warned about before getting into it.

2 - DIRTY THROTTLE PLATE - Can I clean this using a solvent and tooth brush leaving the TB on or should I take the whole thing off to make sure nothing gets into the engine. What solvent to use?

3 - LOOSE LEFT FRONT SWAY BAR - I've got some looseness in the steering and wondering if this could be causing it. Any tricks or advice to changing this out?

4 - ZERKS - There's lots of zerks on my Jeep to be attended to every year but I'm not so sure about the Vic since I'm just getting to know the car. What zerks does the Vic have I need to be aware of and greasing?

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1. No gasket on the cover. Uses Motorcraft TA-29 silicone. If you have limited slip, you need the additive as well. 

2. You can clean it on the car, just be aware you will probably have to "clear flood" to start it. I usually use Motorcraft PM-14 choke and linkage cleaner. But there are a lot of cleaners in the aftermarket. 

3. Swaybar end link shouldn't cause looseness in the steering. No real tips, just have both wheels off the ground so you are not fighting the bar. 

4. Factory stuff was sealed and not greaseable.  

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Many thanks YT. 

1 - How would I know if I have a limited slip diff and what kind of additive should I add to the new diff fluid if I do?

2 - Not sure what a clear flood is

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Just found how to tell if I have a limited slip or not.  Still not sure about what additive to use.

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#1 - Why ?  My 21 year old E150 has the original rear diff lube.  "If it ain't broke, don't fix it !"

#2 - Why ?  If you have throttle by wire, your vehicle will not drive well for the first few trips while it "re-learns".  "If it ain't broke, don't fix it !"

#3 - Sway bars have nothing to do with steering

#4 - From the factory, Crown Vics have ZERO grease fitting.  As suspension components wear out, replace them with Moog suspension components that DO have zerk fittings.

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Bradley

1. If you don't have limited slip, straight gear oil, which I think is 75w-140. If you do have limited slip, use at least one bottle of Motorcraft XL-3 or it will chatter on turns.  

2. "Clear Flood Mode" is when you key on, hold the foot feed to the floor and then crank. This tells the PCM to temporarily disable the injectors so you can clear out an overfuelling issue. 

Wizard

1. There is a legit service interval for axle grease. Can't remember it off the top of my head. It is cheap and fairly easy, though I rarely suggest it. Id rather just clean off the magnetic plug every oil change and monitor it.

2. Dirty throttle bodies can mess with learned idle air flow and cause issues. They don't need to be squeaky clean, but its not a bad idea to service it, if its slimey. 

3. Sway bars can affect over/understeer feeling. They don't make the steering loose in the conventional sense, but an unhooked/missing bar can certainly make it feel odd driving. Not knowing his definition of "loose" or seeing it for myself, its best to cover the bases. Either way, if it is broke, it should be fixed. ;) 

4. I've found greaseable units last as long as the non-greaseable, generally. Also, some of the Moog parts have oversized/knurled areas on press fit parts, which enlarge the hole in the arm, so they can't always be replaced after those are used, and you certainly can't go back to stock. 

 

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