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About to change out the intake manifold on this '11 crown vic and I don't have any torque values. Should've got the FSM when I got her back in May. Anybody happen to have access to this info? The bolts involved would be for the throttle body frame assembly, fuel rail, thermostat housing and manifold bolts.

Also I've been told that while I've got everything off to check some kind of hose or connection that runs under the manifold. What's this piece possibly called? I'd rather have the part on hand when I get going on this.
 

Edited by bradleyheathhays

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ALL 8mm headed bolts are 89 lb inch. The 10 mm headed bolts on small bolts (like alternator bracket retainers) are 106 lb inch. All thick 10mm headed bolts are 18 lb ft. The crash bracket has I believe a 13 or 15 mm headed bolt or two  and are 18 lb ft. Tighten all bolts on the actual intake in a star pattern, working out from the middle. INJECTORS HAVE TO BE SEATED IN RAIL first, then the rail installed on manifold.  EGR feed tube itself is 32 lb ft at both ends. 

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Forgot to add... its called the coolant bypass tube. Get the o rings for it too. There are two for sure, might be three, I cant remember for 100% 

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Thanks got the part now.

I think my setup is a little different than the engines in the youtube videos I've been watching. I don't have the throttle cables and ports on either side of the aluminum part of the manifold..


 

2.JPG

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8eQgjKz.jpg

 

To my surprise the manifold I unboxed didn't have embedded gaskets like I'd seen in all the videos.  I assume this would be the version that requires a separate gasket. Unless there's better advice I'll prob just go with a Felpro.


Actually, should I just return this one and get the embedded gasket version. Someone mentioned the seal on that one would probably never go bad.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by bradleyheathhays

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Has anybody worked with this particular type manifold?  Does it take a pre-made gasket or maybe just RTV?

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What type of manifold? The one in your pic requires separate gaskets. 

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ok thanks YT
 
The big tube coming off the back of my EGR valve is mucho rusty so instead of making the separation there the plan is to remove the 2 (also very rusty) bolts holding the valve to the throttle body.
 
Does the EGR valve gasket need to be replaced when the valve is separated from the throttle body or is reusing the old one ok?
Edited by bradleyheathhays

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If it is the steel gasket, just reuse. If it is the fiber one, as long as you don't tear it, it will be fine to reuse as well. 

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Feels like I'm always making baby steps here but I guess that's the way it is when you're learning a new vehicle.
 
After no small effort of getting everything over to my buddy's heated garage for the job I take everything off back to the 15mm crash bracket bolt, the one you can't see, and it just wouldn't budge.  Used both a swivel head and wrench ratchet.  Seems like I was able to get a good hold both times but when I went to twist the heads acted like they might've been rounded off.  So I pulled out and put everything the f back together.  Talked to a mechanic close by who will work on just the bolt for me so hopefully it won't end up costing too much.
 
Called one of the mechanics who used to work on this vehicle when it was part of a fleet and he was trying to convince me to let him do the entire manifold job because there was a process to burping the engine coolant that used a special vacuum tool.  He said if the burping isn't done right that the engine will have hot spots.  Is this true?  I've got a hand powered vac tool if that's what he's talking about.  Only place I could imagine applying vacuum would be at the reservoir cap.  Could buy a second cheap cap and drill/adapt it to take a vacuum tube.

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You CAN do it without an "air lift" but it sucks. The T-stat has to be out and the heater hose on the rear of the intake has to be off. Fill the engine through the T-stat hole until coolant is visible in the heater hose outlet on the intake. Put the hose back on. Fill the T-stat hole, then install the t-stat and upper hose. Set coolant level in the degas bottle, install the cap and warm it up. I usually hold it at 2000 to 2500 rpm, hoping it will burp itself. Shut it off. Once it cools back off, fill the coolant level. Recheck the coolant level the next couple drive cycles. 

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