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HarryTitus

Latest on my Tire Pressure Monitoring System problem

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Hi Folks!

 

A few months ago I posted, asking if any of you had experienced an intermittent failure of the TPMS, not a low tire warning, but a failure of the system. Of the few responses, one who had, and another who suggested that a bad cell phone charger could interrupt the "ping" and cause the failure. He further said that if I wasn't charging a phone, then go to the service department.

 

The truck is now 8 months old. I special ordered it and took delivery the day it arrived at the dealership. It's a gas King Ranch, SRW, with an 8' bed and all the heavy duty stuff.

 

Well, the problem kept getting worse until it finally has gotten so bad that it's nonfunctional most of the time. Usually takes a 30 minute drive before the warning light/chime/readout clicks on, and usually involves the left side sensors, but has affected all four at some time or another.

 

Took it in to the service department two days ago, They had it for two days trying to diagnose the fault. Here's what they said. First, these are a new type of sensor and contain a battery. Second, the dash readings of the individual tire pressures of all four wheels are way off from the actual readings....more than 5 PSI on average. I know, I know, they are not expected to be perfect, but this is way worse than considered normal. Also, to diagnose/test sensors, the steps state to begin with LF wheel and go around from there. Trouble is the LF isn't usually sending a signal at all, and the LR fails even if the LF does send, both which interrupt the testing sequence for the rest.

 

Oh, yes, one more symptom, I had the tires rotated during the service appointment. You'd think that since the LF was the worst offender, that moving it to the LR would shift the fault to the LR. No, not at all, the LF still fails the most. I think therefore that it's something in the system that reads the sensors and not sends the signal, but hey....what do I know!? LOL.

 

So, they ordered 4 new wheel sensors. Gonna' see if throwing parts at it will solve the problem. What are the odds for all four being defective, or even two for that matter?

 

I hate this.....I hate the thought of them tearing into those new wheels and maybe damaging the finish. I hate to think that even if the new ones work I have to expect the batteries to fail again in the future. I hate it that I have never had a TPMS issue with any of my previous Fords, but this brand new one/type has already failed and they don't know why. I hate that the TPMS is not designed leave fault codes for the tech to pull, leaving them having to guess. I hate that if the system never works again that I will have a flashing idiot light for the rest of the time I own the truck. Etc.

 

I will update after the new parts go in.

 

Harry

Edited by HarryTitus

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The batteries are only good for 5 years on average. I know yours are new and I doubt its the wheel modules. They should be able to test the wheel sensors on the truck, crap ever tire dealer has the tool. I'd say your problem is in the vehicle, not the tire sensors.

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When the tires were rotated, did they retrain the sensors? If not, the truck can't tell where the sensor is located. It just knows the position in which it was originally trained.

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Some articles say there's an antenna near each wheel that picks up the signal and sends it to the module. The wiring may be damaged or too close to something else causing EMI interference. That seems to be the likely problem if it's confined to one spot. They also suggest checking to see if any fault codes are showing up.

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Interesting, my 2013 only announces when a tire is out of spec (I guess lol). Has anyone tried extremes as completely deflating tires and then overinflated 10lbs. or so and see if those extremes may jump start the monitor? Appears batt(s) are adequate along with maintaining a plus or minus fixed sensing.

 

I'll be darned if something like that could happen to me also. Using the strategy figuratively- if not working beat with a hammer :) Sensors would have to be transducers I'd imagine; taking a local mechanical reading and generating a signal. Also understand tire slime inflation will trash sensors again making me think also it would plug any mechanical pressure sensor? post-57704-0-51161300-1524133436_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Rich B.

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They rotated the tires first, then inflated to correct pressures. I'm sure they did that part correctly. The tech went to great length explaining all the step by step process the manual calls for. Sent him all over the truck, even the trailer wiring, but in the end it was the failure of the wheel to interact with the tool he used that resulted in a "no fix" situation. Currently, for instance, my RF wheel registers 74 PSI on the dash read out, but the pressure gauge shows it at a perfect 60 PSI. The other three are all off about 6 pounds...give or take. No tire slime Rich, these tires are new with the truck, no flats repaired, nothing done except keeping inflated to the 60/65 PSI as required.

 

Harry

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MKX1960-- There is ONE antenna on a Super Duty. They MUST be trained to the position and in order so it knows where they are LF, RF, RR, LR. Other manufacturers may do it differently, but that's how Ford does it on all models.

 

It sounds like they couldn't be trained properly which probably accounts for all the issues you are having. At least that is a safe place to start. There is a simpler version of the tire training tool available from Ford. P/N 8C2Z-1A203-A. About $40.

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YT90SC, I just ordered that tool. Can you recommend a video or step by step to use it?

 

Also, The sensor that fails most often in the LF, even after rotation and resetting the sensors. So, I'm not convinced it is a sensor issue.

 

Thanks!

 

Harry

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With tires at the door plackard specified pressure, with the Ignition off, press and release the brake pedal. Then turn the ignition off to run 3 times (without starting), ending in run. Press and release the brake pedal again. Then turn it off and repeat the off to run cycle 3 more times. The horn should honk and the display should say "train left front tire" (driver front). Put the tool basically where the tire and rim meet near the valve stem. Press the button. When trained, the horn will honk once to show it has trained. The display will now say "train right front tire" (passenger front). And do the same again, placing the tool near the valve stem where the rim and tire meet and press the button. It will honk again. The display will now say "train right rear tire" repeat the tool placement/button press on the right rear. Wait for the honk the display will say "train left rear tire", then go to the left rear and repeat the placement/ button press. IT should honk a final time and if successful all the training messages should be gone and "Tire training complete" should display. Ignition off.

 

If it honks twice, it has timed out and the process will need to be restarted. Once in a while you have to press the button again on the tool and hold it near the valve stem itself. The tool is sending the training request as long as the LED is on. No need to hold it, it will keep it will remain on for 10 seconds or so, I believe.

 

IF a new sensor is installed, it may need to be "woken up" by driving it a few miles over 35 mph as they are supposed to to save the battery during shelf life.

 

If any specific tire doesn't train with a time or three of trying to train it, move to the next tire. IT wont train in the right location, but that might be indicative of a bad sensor. i.e. if you can train all three others, it most likely has failed a specific sensor.

Edited by YT90SC

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For DRW trucks, the outer wheels must be removed. Training mode is 100% the same but the training sequence is now LF, RF, RR Inner, RR Outer , LR Inner, LR Outer.

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OK, got the new tool! But, I have a push button start and the sequence you posted doesn't work with it. What do you do with it?

 

Harry

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Its same procedure just dont push brake pedal and hold button to turn ignition on and one press to turn off.

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I tried the Brake/push hazard flasher button 3 time method. horn beeped, prompt came on dash, and was able to program LF but RF would not program, stopping the rest of the process. Still can

t do it at all with the push button thing.

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Just an FYI the hazard button procedure should work on previously programmed sensors but to program new sensors you have to use the ignition switch method. Yours should work with just the hazard as they are previously programmed sensors to the vehicle. Ran into that on a MKS and F150. Couldnt program replacement sensors with hazard button had to use ignition.

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Just an FYI the hazard button procedure should work on previously programmed sensors but to program new sensors you have to use the ignition switch method. Yours should work with just the hazard as they are previously programmed sensors to the vehicle. Ran into that on a MKS and F150. Couldnt program replacement sensors with hazard button had to use ignition.

 

I have used the hazard button method on my 2012 Focus with both factory and after market sensors.

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RESULTS!!!!

 

Well, they fixed the problem! After getting the new wheel sensors in they began the repair. They removed the tires and found one sensor damaged and broken open, and two more that were not transmitting! Ther replaced all four and the problem has gone away!

 

What are the odds of that?! Two bad ones and one damaged one. Mechanic surmised that all three were damaged while they mounted the tires in the factory.

 

We will soon know if there is a rash of these issues, because if they damaged three of my four I suspect the damage went on for other mounts as well!

 

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions!

 

Harry

Edited by HarryTitus

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