Escapism Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Well, every new car I've ever owned (not that many, 3) I have always done the first oil change early, around or before 1000 miles. Some folks say this is no longer necessary. I'm going to go ahead and do it because it can't hurt, right? What are your thoughts on this? Also, and more importantly, the manual lists the 5W-30 Synthertic Blend first when listing the recommended oil. Does this mean it is what I should use? I'm only asking because I was under the impression that turbo's operate at higher temps requiring a full synthetic. Are you folks going to go with the Motorcraft 5W-30 Full Synthetic or the Premium Blend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'm making my first change at 1,000 miles and going to full synthetic. I usually use a major label brand that I find the best sale price on, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, etc. Mobil 1 has a bad reputation in turbos on the Subaru forums (where I have spent a LOT of time the past 6 years), so I am reluctant to use it, I'm just brain-washed on that, I have no hard data. I have had no issues changing from one brand to another (used to be very loyal to Valvoline many years ago). Every car manual has recommendations on what products to use and some are worded in such a way to incite some fear in new owners. I am going to use Motorcraft oil filters however because there are some things about them than can vary in the aftermarket products. Motorcraft filters are reasonably priced and available at many retailers besides the dealer, so I see no reason to use any other brand. You are opening a small can of worms as there are many widely varied opinions on the oil change topic...be prepared to become even more confused. The important thing is to regularly change the oil and filter with quality product and you'll be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inswva Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Can't hurt, but not necessary, IMO. To me, it would seem to be a waste of money. But, if it gives you peace of mind, go for it. As far as oil goes, I think it is largely personal preference. I've always been partial to Mobil 1 full synthetic in anything I really care about. But, again, that's just me. If you really want an engaging debate on oil, visit the forums at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com. With that said, even though I'm a DIY guy, I'll probably have my dealer perform all scheduled maintenance while the vehicle is still under warranty. I think the Motorcraft synthetic blend will be just fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escapism Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Thanks pillboy. One other question. The 5.7qts. listed in the manual is including a new oil filter? PS. I'm going full synthetic also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtenthusiast Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Thanks pillboy. One other question. The 5.7qts. listed in the manual is including a new oil filter? Yes, for the 2.0 EB. I changed mine at 3K miles and put all 6 quarts in which brought it to the top of the hashmark. And good notation on the 5W30 as most fords use 5W20 now, I was suprised. I am using the Ford semi-synthetic. For the subsequent changes, I will be following the oil change computer as I drive all highway miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transitman Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I printed a coupon from the Ford web site for a $29.95 oil change, tire rotation and multi point inspection which included two free oil changes within a year. I also have a no expiration free oil change certificate from the dealership and yesterday I got an e-mail with a coupon for a $14.95 oil change and multi point inspection which expires on 12/25/12. Other than a round trip to and from Phoenix and a summer road trip, I don't put that many miles on my car. With the expiration dates, I'll be changing my oil around 3000 miles or less, much less. I guess that's not a bad thing, just unnecessary, because I was planning on going around 7000 to 8000 miles. The invoice from my first dealer oil change listed 6 quarts, which as svtenthusiast said, took it to the top of the cross hatching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escapism Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Thanks for all the info folks. My local Pepboys (and the only place I could find on the net) has the Motorcraft 5W-30 Full Synthetic for $5.49/qt. Not too bad I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtenthusiast Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I printed a coupon from the Ford web site for a $29.95 oil change, tire rotation and multi point inspection which included two free oil changes within a year. I also have a no expiration free oil change certificate from the dealership and yesterday I got an e-mail with a coupon for a $14.95 oil change and multi point inspection which expires on 12/25/12. Other than a round trip to and from Phoenix and a summer road trip, I don't put that many miles on my car. With the expiration dates, I'll be changing my oil around 3000 miles or less, much less. I guess that's not a bad thing, just unnecessary, because I was planning on going around 7000 to 8000 miles. The invoice from my first dealer oil change listed 6 quarts, which as svtenthusiast said, took it to the top of the cross hatching. On those coupons you have to read close because they include only 5 quarts of oil. My shop wanted another 8-10 bucks for the additional quart and "labor" which brought it to around $40. I said no thanks and did it myself, which I was happy to do since I don't trust them to put all the underbody shields and fasteners back in place/correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escapism Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 I don't trust them to put all the underbody shields and fasteners back in place/correctly. You are spot on with that. I am so tired of DEALERSHIPS not putting it back together they way they got it, or (imagine this) in even better condition than recieved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transitman Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 At the first oil change, I asked about the 5 quart/6 quart difference since it was printed on the coupon up to 5 quarts and he said he doesn't worry about it because it comes from a bulk tank and the tech dials up the amount. All the other coupons state up to 7 quarts of oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Yes, for the 2.0 EB. I changed mine at 3K miles and put all 6 quarts in which brought it to the top of the hashmark. And good notation on the 5W30 as most fords use 5W20 now, I was suprised. I am using the Ford semi-synthetic. For the subsequent changes, I will be following the oil change computer as I drive all highway miles. I looked in the manual before I last bought oil on sale. I have been used to buying 5W30 but was well aware a good number of newer cars call for 5W20. I would be comfortable following the oil-life calculated by the computer if I did a lot of highway miles, but we also have a lot of short trips, and severe cold, so I am going to just go with every 5,000 miles (unless it is effing cold in the garage and the little electronic brain says it's OK, I will probably postpone it for a little while). Old habits (short oil change intervals) are hard to break when you have been doing this for 37 years and oil changes are relatively cheap "insurance" if you feel like doing them yourself (and are a smart shopper for supplies). I will probably just dump in the full six quarts - thanks for that information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rscalzo Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 but was well aware a good number of newer cars call for 5W20. Turbos require a heavier oil. Synthetic should be the only approved oil. VW found out the hard way when they spec'd standard oil for their older 1.8T and had engines failing all over the place. Turbos heat the oil up to a much higher level that a standard engine. 5K sounds about right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CuivreParc Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Are the Turbos on the Ecoboost engines oil lubricated and water cooled to keep the turbos from cooking the oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtenthusiast Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Are the Turbos on the Ecoboost engines oil lubricated and water cooled to keep the turbos from cooking the oil? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtenthusiast Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Turbos require a heavier oil. Synthetic should be the only approved oil. VW found out the hard way when they spec'd standard oil for their older 1.8T and had engines failing all over the place. Turbos heat the oil up to a much higher level that a standard engine. 5K sounds about right. What I thought was odd was while the 2.0EB uses the 5W30, the 1.6EB uses the 5W20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escapism Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 Turbos require a heavier oil. Synthetic should be the only approved oil. VW found out the hard way when they spec'd standard oil for their older 1.8T and had engines failing all over the place. Turbos heat the oil up to a much higher level that a standard engine. 5K sounds about right. You got that right. My wifes previous car was a VW Pashit. The turbo cooked the blended oil and clogged the intake tube. A costly stupid repair. I will always use full synthetic when it comes to turbos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 A number of years ago Subaru spec'd 7,500 mile oil change intervals and conventional oil for their turbos. A couple years later they changed the recommendations to 3,750 miles and full synthetic. Didn't they figure this $h!t out the first go-'round with turbos back in the '80s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Some of you change oil in new Escapes by yourself, right? I've read from other threads it's a major headache because of the huge aerodynamic panel under the engine. Is it indeed really hard, and is it worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transitman Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Some of you change oil in new Escapes by yourself, right? I've read from other threads it's a major headache because of the huge aerodynamic panel under the engine. Is it indeed really hard, and is it worth it? I haven't changed the oil in my Escape, (I'm having the dealership do it with discount and free coupons) but my 2012 Focus had a similar underbody panel. With the proper tools and equipment it's very easy. To easily access under the car and remove the panel, you need a set of ramps and a #30 Torx screw driver and of course a filter wrench, socket, drain pan, et al. The panel is very light and can easily be removed and installed by one person. There are tabs that hold the panel after and before you remove or install the screws. I'm wondering what you mean by "is it worth it". Changing the oil is obvious and the panel is designed to improve aerodynamics and it keeps the underside of the engine and transmission clean and protected from road salt, at least for those of us in Northern climates. I prefer to change my own oil, (but I can't pass up cheap and free changes) that way I can heat the oil prior to changing, drain the oil for 20-30 minutes, make sure the filter and drain plug are installed properly and fill to the top of the hash marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Did my daughter's Focus with the same type of panel and it only added an extra 5 minutes to take it off and put it back on. Once you have the torx bit it's an easy one person job. Just don't forget to put it back on before you back it off the ramps like I did. BTW - highly recommend Rhino ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escapism Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 I haven't changed the oil in my Escape, (I'm having the dealership do it with discount and free coupons) but my 2012 Focus had a similar underbody panel. With the proper tools and equipment it's very easy. To easily access under the car and remove the panel, you need a set of ramps and a #30 Torx screw driver and of course a filter wrench, socket, drain pan, et al. The panel is very light and can easily be removed and installed by one person. There are tabs that hold the panel after and before you remove or install the screws. I'm wondering what you mean by "is it worth it". Changing the oil is obvious and the panel is designed to improve aerodynamics and it keeps the underside of the engine and transmission clean and protected from road salt, at least for those of us in Northern climates. I prefer to change my own oil, (but I can't pass up cheap and free changes) that way I can heat the oil prior to changing, drain the oil for 20-30 minutes, make sure the filter and drain plug are installed properly and fill to the top of the hash marks. +1 on all that. If one saying is true, its "if you want something done right, then do it yourself". I have tackled many a job on my previous vehicles, and many times it turns into a big cluster &%@k. But at the end of the day I know that I replaced those stripped bolts, or drilled out a snapped screw and re-tapped it and replaced it., etc, etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 That $h!t also happens to the pros too. The Toyota dealer snapped off a bleeder on our Camry and never said anything...until the next time the car went in for a brake fluid change 2 years later. I had a word or two for them since they were the last to touch the brakes. What happened to manning-up when you $%#@ up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haywire52 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Waiting for my escape to arrive. Build date Sept. 27. I have been using mobil 1 synthetic in my 05 f150 with good results. Just wondering if any of you have tryed royal purple motor oil and did it work as good or better than other synthetic oils. This is my first turbo engiine and I understand the oil runs hotter in a turbo engine than a non turbo engine. Just want to make sure to put in the best oil for the applacation. I have the 2 litre engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escapism Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) So, anybody actually change the oil yet? Looking for some pointers as far as taking off the underbody plastic sheild. In the past, my wifes Passat had an underbody sheild so I'm familiar with the whole semi-pain-in-the-butt process. Specifically, what tools do I need. i only ask because the bulk of my tools are at work and to do the oil change I will just bring home what I need. I see alot of mentioning of Torx or Star bits on Ford products. Is this common throughout? Are they metric or more like T-25, T-24 type stuff? Thanks in advance! Edited October 4, 2012 by Escapism Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Specifically, what tools do I need. i only ask because the bulk of my tools are at work and to do the oil change I will just bring home what I need. I see alot of mentioning of Torx or Star bits on Ford products. Is this common throughout? Are they metric or more like T-25, T-24 type stuff? Thanks in advance! I haven't changed the oil in my Escape, (I'm having the dealership do it with discount and free coupons) but my 2012 Focus had a similar underbody panel. With the proper tools and equipment it's very easy. To easily access under the car and remove the panel, you need a set of ramps and a #30 Torx screw driver and of course a filter wrench, socket, drain pan, et al. The panel is very light and can easily be removed and installed by one person. There are tabs that hold the panel after and before you remove or install the screws. I'm wondering what you mean by "is it worth it". Changing the oil is obvious and the panel is designed to improve aerodynamics and it keeps the underside of the engine and transmission clean and protected from road salt, at least for those of us in Northern climates. I prefer to change my own oil, (but I can't pass up cheap and free changes) that way I can heat the oil prior to changing, drain the oil for 20-30 minutes, make sure the filter and drain plug are installed properly and fill to the top of the hash marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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