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Here's my list:

 

1. MEGUIARS DEEP CRYSTAL CAR WASH

2. MOTHERS CALIFORNIA GOLD CLAY BAR SYSTEM

3. MEGUIARS ULTIMATE POLISH

4. BLACK MAGIC WETSHINE LIQUID WAX

5. MOTHERS REFLECTIONS TIRE CARE

6. MOTHERS REFLECTIONS LEATHER CARE

7. MOTHERS CHROME POLISH

8. MEGUIARS QUICK DETAILER

 

1. PORTER CABLE 7424 XP POLISHER, USE FOR POLISH AND WAX

2. ZWIPES MICROFIBER TOWELS

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  • 3 weeks later...

i use mostly Meguiar's products. they are readily available both online and in-stores like Target; the quality is very impressive, i've never had any complaints with their stuff. i've also heard good things about Mothers products as well but never used any of them.

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I like Meguiars products, Mothers is good too. I use the clay bar system once a year and try to wax at least once a month during the summer. My car is now 9 years old and still looks new, although it only has 36,xxx miles.

 

Once a month?? Unless you park it outside and live in the sun belt that would seem pretty darn excessive.

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  • 1 month later...

Here's my list:

 

1. MEGUIARS DEEP CRYSTAL CAR WASH

2. MOTHERS CALIFORNIA GOLD CLAY BAR SYSTEM

3. MEGUIARS ULTIMATE POLISH

4. BLACK MAGIC WETSHINE LIQUID WAX

5. MOTHERS REFLECTIONS TIRE CARE

6. MOTHERS REFLECTIONS LEATHER CARE

7. MOTHERS CHROME POLISH

8. MEGUIARS QUICK DETAILER

 

1. PORTER CABLE 7424 XP POLISHER, USE FOR POLISH AND WAX

2. ZWIPES MICROFIBER TOWELS

Megs are not bad products but they just don't hold up or work as well as commercial/professional grade products (that actual cost the same or less). Here are my recommendations...

 

1. The absolute best washing device known to man is a long boar hair brush....yeah it's stiff when dry but when wet, it is softer than any cotton towel you could find & because of the tips only touching the paint, the swirl marks are almost 100% eliminated. Available at griots garage or Erie Brush & Manufacturing Corp, 860 W. Fletcher, Chicago (but you need to have a company name to purchase, no individual sales) .

 

The next best option, 100% cotton diaper (Babies r' us has em- about $20 for a bag). wash them 2-3 times with fabric softener before using them for washing & drying. For washing, without contact dirt on the vehicle, use the open butt of a garden hose, on low to apply water just ahead of the wash diaper....it almost makes the towel float and the remaining dirt float off the paint without touching.

 

2. Soap...I recommend: No7 Car Wash Concentrate

Available at any True Value Hardware; Mfg by RainDance/ArmorAll Corp. It has been around for 40+ years, is a powder, very inexpensive and us about 1 tablespoon per 3 gallons. It also has anti-water spotting agents which until you try it the first time, you would not believe the advantage of drying a black car.

 

3. General paint maintenance

General paint cleaning (if required) - use a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol & water (denatured is available at any hardware store & is oil free). It will remove any wax/polish and most all environmental contamination & ensure you are starting with a very clean surface.

 

For specific swirl mark issues I use BAF/Pro Car Care Beauty Products P21 Swirl Eliminator & Polish- although for 30 years I used 3M products specifically, recently I have not been as pleased with the quality of 3M’s hand glaze. I typically do not like "combination" type products but P21 is very, very impressive & effective from end result, ease of use & overall effectiveness.

 

Wax/polish...

 

The absolute best ($ for $) IMHO is "Satin Cream" (for dark colors), it is made by BAF & distributed through Pro Car Care products. It is very easy to work with either by hand, orbital or buffer. It has the same acrylic hardener as the high dollar paint sealants but it has 30% German imported carnauba....no, your arm will not fall off putting it on or taking it off & it has a very mild polish in it as well. Even parking the vehicle outside, the MFG gives a 6 months warranty before another application is required. I use this personally on my toys & daily drivers (which include a 1997 black Cougar sport) and all I can tell you are not even bugs like to stick to the paint- most of the time when water is applied they just float off- bird poop is just as easy. No smeary look either- very clean clear deep look. On my toys, I give them a fresh coat about every 2 years (literally, even for a show), my daily drivers (I have one that sits outside), I apply to the entire vehicle every 6 months, and do the hood, roof and trunk every 3 months (probably overkill, but I know it is well protected from the elements including industrial fallout)

BAF Industries 1910 S. Yale Street Santa Ana, CA 92704 800-437-9893

 

An excellent alternate product is 3M Perfect It Show Car Liquid Wax- a silicone wax/polish but excellent results as well, just maybe about 90% of the quality of the satin cream.

 

From both a washing, drying, wax/polish removale apsect, I have tried every microfiber product made over the past 15 years...many free from Megs, etc as samples to use, I have yet to find anything that compares to 100% cotten flannel (or diapers for washing/drying)...whether you look at it from a price aspect, absorbion or final finish...nor whether the paint is lacquer, Acrylic enamel, laytex or urathane.

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Once a month?? Unless you park it outside and live in the sun belt that would seem pretty darn excessive.

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

 

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

 

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

 

beechkid-albums-pics-picture170460-clar-bar-1997.jpg

 

 

beechkid-albums-pics-picture170461-clay-bar-2006.jpg

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Single best "wax" product I have ever used is Liquid Glass (in gold labeled can with red 60's Corvette on label).

I have been using this on all my vehicles (everyday drivers, older original paint lacquer or enamel paint jobs and on variou show cars I've owned) for over 25 years now and have never been disappointed with it. I've used it on dark and light colors with equally good success.

 

Liquid Glass builds with each successive coat you put on, without stripping/removing prior coat like many waxes do. I generally put 2-3 coats on a new vehicle and re-coat annually after that since the shine continues to deepen with each successive coat.

 

My wife recently bought a Black VW Golf that we used Liquid Glass on and it looks great after just 2 coats. I have a 2014 Mustang GT (in black) on order that will be receiving several coats of Liquid Glass when she first gets home.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My garage is stocked with products from Adam's Polishes along with a variety of different polishers. Two much to list on an individual basis but I do detailing on the side.

 

Also my final coat of wax on my red mustang is a product call DoDo Juice Orange Crush.

 

1. Synthetic wax/sealant

2. Pure Carnuba wax

3. Dodo Juice Orange Crush

 

 

You want the synthetic as the foundation as it is the hardest and most durable of the three. It will last the driving season and with stands higher temperatures. Carnuba will essentially melt off the car when left in the sunlight for a few days. DoDo Juice Orange Crush, well don't expect that to last at all. I usually use that pre car show as a little bottle is $70. It makes the paint pop in color but it is not considered any form of protection.

 

IMG_5927-L.jpg

 

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Edited by marioski
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