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Remote Start and MyKey


Mustang46

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got my car (2011 Mustang) and did this. After a 'set back', it is now working!

I had inadvertanly held the remote fob button too long an reset the all of bank 2 to defaults. I was then getting a "tach not learned" error when I tried to remote start the car. I put bank 2 option 1 back to On (i.e. tachless) and got it working.

 

Once I 'fixed' it, here are the steps I did did:

The remote override button is 'easy' to find. It is taped to a harness, kind of right under the steering column. The remote module is tie wrapped above the kick panel (black box). The LED is tapped to the same harness and is about 1 inch from that button (between the button and the remote start module). I found it was easier to lay my back onto my drivers seat and then slide under the dash. Once you find the override button it is easy to press while sitting in the seat. But the LED is hard to see when sitting. So this is my recommended approach:

1. sit in the car with the door closed (has to be closed to enter programming mode)

2. press and hold brake pedal (keep it pressed)

3. turn ignition key to run (one position from start which lights up all the guages)

4. reach under the dash and press and hold the override button until horn beeps 3 times (about 10 seconds)

5. after the three beeps, release the override button

6. release brake pedal

7. open the door and now lay on your back to get your head under the dash (so you can see the LED light up; it won't be lit yet, but once it is, it will be obvious).

8. press and release override button (horn beeps 4 times, indicating bank 1)

9. press and release override button (horn beeps 5 times, indicating bank 2)

10. press brake (horn beeps 1 time, indicating option 1). This is "Tach Mode". I believe the LED should be lit. This is the one I had to play with. The true default is off, but I had to turn it On after I reset to defaults.

11. press brake (horn beeps 2 times, option 2). LED should be lit.

12. press brake (horn beeps 3 times, option 3). LED should be off.

13. press brake (horn beeps 4 times, option 4). LED should be lit.

14. press brake (horn beeps 5 times, option 5). LED should be off.

15. press brake (horn beeps 6 times, option 6). LED should be lit.

16. press brake (horn beeps 7 times, option 7). LED should be lit. (this is the one you need to change.

17. press and release the button on the remote start fob. the LED will go off.

18. press brake (horn beeps 8 times, option 8). LED should be off.

19. climb out and turn ignition key to off and take the key out.

20. close door and remote start your car. things should be great now.

Edited by mbyers
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  • 2 years later...

Sorry to dig up an old topic, but I am about to pick up a V6/auto 2014 stang

and am haivng the 2-way remote start installed. Does this procedure also

apply to the 2-way (bi-directional I think it is called)?

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The newer Audiovox boxes dont allow the shutdown of the MyKey feature. You have to disable in the manner I originally listed, way back in 2010. Dont get the two way, if the 'factory' system is availabe (the one with the IKIT mounted button) as the IKIT is the key, and treated as MyKey or Admin, which ever way it is programmed.

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The newer Audiovox boxes dont allow the shutdown of the MyKey feature. You have to disable in the manner I originally listed, way back in 2010. Dont get the two way, if the 'factory' system is availabe (the one with the IKIT mounted button) as the IKIT is the key, and treated as MyKey or Admin, which ever way it is programmed.

 

Just saw this now, they installed the 2 way today. Can I still use this method?

 

"unhook the door ajar wire and remove the key in ignition jumper in the module. This renders MyKey useless when using the remote start though."

Edited by OX1
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Does this procedure also apply to the 2-way (bi-directional I think it is called)?

I am not familiar with that one. The link I had used listed a bunch of modules, maybe it is updated with the newer ones.

 

The newer Audiovox boxes dont allow the shutdown of the MyKey feature.

Figures they would do that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tore into this as I was in there is hook up my remote rad detector display (Val1). Remote start normally shuts off if you open door,

insert key (without opening door) or hit brake pedal. The smaller connector had maybe 5 wires and one is the key-in-sense-input.

I disconnected this connector, left the window open and started car. Reached in, put key in and turned ign on.

car remained running.

 

Opening door still kills engine, but that wire (door ajar switch input) is on the large connector,

I was hesitant to disconnect that connector. I'm not sure what happens if you remove main power from the unit.

Would the Securlock interface need re-programming if it loses power. I would assume not, as what happens if you bat goes dead.

Good news is my Securlock is programmed as an admin, anyway.

 

So I need to figure out how to remove a wire from the main harness/connector (remove door ajar input).

I don't want to cut it, as if it does not work, I want to keep it stock looking for warantee (remote start was dealer installed).

 

Still not sure if remote start module will not kill engine after 10 minutes, but if I manage to get door open and key in ign

(with car still runnning), I hope hitting brake pedal transfers running of vehicle to ign vs remote start module. I just hope

it is not in the software pack that it HAS to be shut down and restarted to operate normally off ign. Worst case, I could maybe

find an earlier software pack. Overall, unit, wiring, and connectors seems identical to even system 200 units dating back to 07.

Edited by OX1
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I would not think the module would need to be reprogrammed if it looses power. The settings should be stored in non-volatile memory (i.e. permanently saved).

I would think the brake pedal and door are separate. Even thought I disabled the door open part, the brake pedal still kills the engine.

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  • 1 year later...

Never did attempt to get this working without shutting off, but did find out more info the other day.

Traded my 14 v6 for a 14 GT, so I pulled out auto start, figuring it should work on the GT.

 

Opened up module and found these jumpers.

 

module.jpg

 

Just so happens they are for the key-in sense and door trigger, almost custom

made to bypass mykey.

 

DIAGRAM.jpg

 

and just in case anyone is interested in the wiring of the 2 way system here is.

Hope to get this in the GT and try it in the next week or so.

 

wiring.jpg

Edited by OX1
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I did not connect the Green/Viol door ajar wire and removed black/white key-in sense wire from car start harness (playing with jumpers did not work).

Works perfect. After remote start, unlocking door, opening door, and installing ign key/turning to run do nothing. Hitting brake pedal

after key is in run, sends signal to module which shows it shutting down via a flash of 2-way remote.

 

Vid of it all. Warning!!, Vid is in HD (37 Meg) with an MTS codec, so it may take a zillion years to download and may not work on older media players.

 

 

http://luxjo.supermotors.net/MUSTANG/AUTO%20START/00148.MTS

Edited by OX1
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