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ScapeNMontey

Tire Pressure Monitor Sensor Fault

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Hey, can we please get back to the TPS fault issue? I just returned from a trip from West Palm back to Orlando (avg. speed 70 for about 3 hours) and the fault light was on for almost 2-2.5 hours. Even when I stopped for gas, a block from home, it stayed on, until I tuned the iginition off last night. Of course it is off this a.m. and no light on the way to work. When I exceed 50 mph for 15-20 minutes seems to be the thing that kicks it on.

 

Talked to my tech advisor at the dealership last week, who had talked to the techs. They had no advice and my tech advisor believes that high pressure will set it off, but she doesn't read this forum. I told her she needs to start reading here. Looks like I'm gonna have to run up and down I-4 until the light comes on and then run it directly to the dealership.

 

If anyone has any ideas or advice, please post it!!

 

Vanman628

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Typically sensors report a low condition...not excessive pressure. After your run to trip the sensor...pressure the dealer to replace all 4 sensors.

Edited by atomaro

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vanman628, the TPM system works on the MS-CAN network and the fault that is occurring may not becoming from the tire sensors. The MS-CAN works on unshielded wires and this could be an intermittent problem with your Instrument Cluster (IC) or the Smart Junction Box (SJB). The fact that you are only seeing the problem after driving over 40mph for 25 minutes maybe related to heat from a connection or a added device that's effecting the SJB. If it was a tire sensor, speed and time should not be an issue so I lean that the problem is with the SJB first and the IC second. If you have installed a radio or DVD player I would disconnect them and see if the problem is solved. Throughout the repair manual it warns that these devices could effect the computer systems and modules and this may not be a warranty covered problem.

 

Also, each tire sensor is trained like RF, LF, RR, LR and spare if you have a sensor there. Do you get a flashing warning first before you get a solid light? If you have added a non OEM device, disconnect it and see if there is still a problem. There are pinpoint test the techs should be testing on the IC and SJB to find stored codes with their scan tools. I know CarlD can find these codes with the SGII even 2 weeks after the wrench light resets after an OFF/On Key.

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I know CarlD can find these codes with the SGII even 2 weeks after the wrench light resets after an OFF/On Key.

That may not always be true as far as the CAN buss system goes. During my continuing quest for knowledge on the Escape 4WD systems, I pulled the fuse for the 4WD module. That lites the wrench dash icon, replacing the fuse turns it OFF. CarlD told me what magical numbers to plug into my SG-II and it seems that the DTC was still there. Some DTCs will remain till the said code that turned it ON "sees" that the problem no longer exsists. It's possible that I didn't drive it enough after replacing the fuse.

 

The CAN buss system seems to retain faults even though there are no dash indicators showing any problems. Since there was the 4WD module DTC stuck in the system, was the 4WD system operating correctly? I don't know!!

 

Again CarlD told me what magical numbers to program into my SG-II to clear that DTC from my vehicle.

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vanman628, the TPM system works on the MS-CAN network and the fault that is occurring may not becoming from the tire sensors. The MS-CAN works on unshielded wires and this could be an intermittent problem with your Instrument Cluster (IC) or the Smart Junction Box (SJB). The fact that you are only seeing the problem after driving over 40mph for 25 minutes maybe related to heat from a connection or a added device that's effecting the SJB. If it was a tire sensor, speed and time should not be an issue so I lean that the problem is with the SJB first and the IC second. If you have installed a radio or DVD player I would disconnect them and see if the problem is solved. Throughout the repair manual it warns that these devices could effect the computer systems and modules and this may not be a warranty covered problem.

 

Also, each tire sensor is trained like RF, LF, RR, LR and spare if you have a sensor there. Do you get a flashing warning first before you get a solid light? If you have added a non OEM device, disconnect it and see if there is still a problem. There are pinpoint test the techs should be testing on the IC and SJB to find stored codes with their scan tools. I know CarlD can find these codes with the SGII even 2 weeks after the wrench light resets after an OFF/On Key.

GaryG, thanks for all that info. I will relay all of this to my service advisor.

 

I don't have ANY after-market electronics on my Escape. It's all stock with the Sync system. And this problem just cropped up after my last oil change and tire rotation. And YES, I get the tone and a flashing light first, then after a while, it goes to a solid light.

 

But, I don't get any faults unless I am driving at higher speeds for an extended time.

 

vanman628

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After having weekly TPS warning prolems for at least 3 months, last Monday the driver side rear sensor finally failed completely. It appears thay can only diagnose the problem when the warning light is on. Getting the sensor repleced today.

 

They told me, if you get new tires and the tire dealer damages the valve stem ('09 has the sensors there) it's $180 to replace it!! Yikes!!

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