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Found 5 results

  1. Has anyone seen any pricing on the Dark Horse? Asking for a friend.
  2. Had a conversation with my dealer on the commodity restraints for specific items. They were told by their Ford Rep to have customers remove items that are restrained. So I removed the 5th Wheel Prep and Bed Liner, obviously I can do those local. I ordered awhile ago and updated this on Tuesday 15 March. I did not receive an email yesterday about being scheduled so, week one, no success. However, I will keep it without the two items and then let you all know how my luck turns out! 2022 F-250 King Ranch 6.7 TD Ultimate
  3. 1FAFP 31N06W234992 ok im in deep doo doo.just purchased this car and am already into it for $ 1167 not counting purchase price. new spark units mass airflow sensor new map sensor 2 motor mounts 4 spark plugs and new intake.the car runs good per mechanic who i trust using him for 30 years.the problenm started with miss on # 2 cylinder.replaced 4 plugs and 4 spark units.car began to run like crap,backfire terrible,code for maf came up replaced that.started again horrible backfiring and then big bang.blew the bottom of intake manifold by #2.replaced manifold still not running right.code for map sensor.replaced that.car running well. check engine light on.map sensor.found the computer reading from red wire 40 below zero. HELP!
  4. Can anyone please try to help find out any info, on my truck. The dealer gave me the vin # 1FT8W3BTXJEB51958 today but had no other info. for me. Tanks if someone could help me. Donald
  5. Got a 83 crown vic. with the stock 302 motor. I have rebuilt the front and top of this motor. and replaced the following parts - Alternator, Starter, Starter Solenoid, Battery, Coil, Voltage Regulator, Ignition Control Module, Ignition Switch, Distributor(rotor bug, and cap), wires, plugs, Fuses, Link-able Fuses. My problem is this. When the alternator is installed in the order the old one came off (and according to a ford wiring diagram for the 302 motor. Positive to red, Field to white, Stator to black, And a ground.) All are labeled on the alternator so its hard to mix them up..., The amp light on the dash stays on, The starter solenoid usually sticks, causing the starter to run constant. (you have to slap the solenoid to get it to dis-engage) Also it is not charging the battery correctly, runs like it's misfiring or in the wrong firing order. If you disconnect a battery cable or both, the alternator runs the car but the windshield wipers come on full speed. (i pulled the fuse for the wipers and it still has the same problems, except the wipers are non operational when there is no fuse) The car ran O.K. for a few years now, until i was delivering pizza's and the cluster of wiring to the solenoid caught fire. i cut the wires and crimped new ends on them also cutting out any visible shorts/breaks in the wires i could see. And then replaced all electrical parts (listed above in red). There are about 10 wires that connect to the solenoid. 2 yellow, 4 red, 2 orange, 1 white going to the voltage reg; and then the big starter cable and pos. batt. cable. The cluster of wires is mostly for lights inside and out of the car. along with any other electrical equipment the driver may use. When i ran a hot wire from the pos. battery post to the field (white post) on the alternator the amp light turns off inside the dashboard and the car runs like its brand new (i know this is bad, so i do not run it like this). the starter solenoid does not stick and the starter shuts off when the motor fires like it should...I have ran a voltmeter and cannot find anything that would cause this problem... Does anyone have any suggestions? am i missing a key electrical component that may have shorted out when the wiring at the solenoid caught fire? If you think you have an answer I'm willing to try anything, if whatever it is can be bypassed or rigged to work i wouldn't care. I just need this car until i find the right one to put this 5.0 in... any help is appreciated. thank you.
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