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bradleyheathhays

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About bradleyheathhays

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Mississippi Valley
  • Location
    Lexington, Ky
  • Current Vehicle
    '96 Jeep Cherokee
  1. Got into it and it seems like my internal intake door wasn't opening at all so I disconnected and wired it open and the heat got much better. For the external I just opened the top cowl and put a zip lock bag over the vent and covered with a big sponge. The top cowl squeezes it down and it'll be easy to remove. Since my internal door had been stuck closed I guess all the air coming through the vents was outside air. Wiring that door open definitely seemed to improve overall airflow. There's probably some other door issues in the dash because when it's set to floor it only comes out the vents. Setting it to defrost only gets air coming out the vents as well. Unfortunately the exhaust wasn't leaking so I'm not sure if this is gonna fix it or not. There's some duct work in the engine bay going from the fan to the center of the firewall. I wonder if a break somewhere in there could be the problem.
  2. Ok good deal thanks for the explanation. Hopefully I'll get something to work.
  3. Thanks for the advice but I'm not sure I follow. Far as I know the re-circulation intake vent only adds air to the vent system that's already in the vehicle. I'm not sure how this would stop air from coming in from the exterior intake vent. On another note...I've been told elsewhere I shouldn't do this because that exterior intake is the only way air gets into the car from the heater and AC coils. Is this true? I was thinking if I shut off the EXterior intake and wired the INterior intake open this would set things straight.
  4. I have an '11 Vic that's leaking exhaust right where the exhaust manifold connects and the problem is it's getting into the cabin by way of the air heat / vent system. When the cars moving I get no exhaust in the vents at all. It only happens when I'm sitting still. For the time being (cold weather), instead of fixing the exhaust I'd just like to block the outside cabin air intake. Here's a pic taken through the outside air vents on the pass side right above the blower motor.. Is the wire mesh opening seen under the vent fins the only intake for the cabin air? My best idea is to cut some kind of hard plastic to match the shape and attach it with plastic epoxy resin. Exhaust smell in the cabin is fairly strong. Are there any other openings into the vent system I should be concerned about? I have an '11 Vic that's leaking exhaust right where the exhaust manifold connects and the problem is it's getting into the cabin by way of the air heat / vent system. When the cars moving I get no exhaust in the vents at all. It only happens when I'm sitting still. For the time being (cold weather), instead of fixing the exhaust I'd just like to block the outside cabin air intake. Here's a pic taken through the outside air vents on the pass side right above the blower motor.. Is the wire mesh opening seen under the vent fins the only intake for the cabin air? My best idea is to cut some kind of hard plastic to match the shape and attach it with plastic epoxy resin. Exhaust smell in the cabin is fairly strong. Are there any other openings into the vent system I should be concerned about?
  5. Also, is it necessary to take the steering wheel off to do this heater core swap? One person says it is, but in the youtube videos they just drop the column and pull the dash out far enough on the right side to trade pieces.
  6. Thanks for that confirmation fuzzy. I've had someone else tell me that too so hopefully these videos are accurate. After some more thinking I'm sure now, this can only be a bad heater core. Is the heater core one of those parts where you should always replace with OEM? If it makes any difference my mileage is at 280k and it does about 25k city miles a year, although the transmission is relatively new. I found a motorcraft model from rockauto for $100 w/ express shipping, but locally I'm finding Murray and Carquest versions for about $35. Tight budget and no time right now so the cheaper and faster the better.
  7. Guess I might as well settle in here as a regular the way this cars going. Got a 2011 Vic w 280k that seems to have developed a heater box coolant leak over the course of a couple hours yesterday. Defrost stopped working (in the rain) and eventually steam started pouring out the dash vents. The engine began to overheat same time the steam started so I pulled it over to cool off for an hour and nurse myself back to health with a beer. Got back in for the leg home and noticed about 1/4 cup of coolant on the pass floor board mat. So it was no surprise when she started overheating again after about 3-4 miles. The reservoir drank about 2 gals of distilled water and that got her the rest of the way in. Testing back at the house reveals a pouring leak coming out the bottom of the car right on top of the cat converters way back at the firewall. Crawling underneath, the leak was seen to be coming from a short 1" tube that sticks out from the firewall right above the cat. Not for sure but I would almost bet this is a drainage tube for when the heater core springs a leak. How likely is this to be my heater box (don't see how it couldn't be) and what do I start doing to get it swapped out? Just got the big heavy shop manual so that'll be a help. I've seen some youtube heater core swap out videos but the closest they come to my year is maybe a 2003.
  8. Feels like I'm always making baby steps here but I guess that's the way it is when you're learning a new vehicle. After no small effort of getting everything over to my buddy's heated garage for the job I take everything off back to the 15mm crash bracket bolt, the one you can't see, and it just wouldn't budge. Used both a swivel head and wrench ratchet. Seems like I was able to get a good hold both times but when I went to twist the heads acted like they might've been rounded off. So I pulled out and put everything the f back together. Talked to a mechanic close by who will work on just the bolt for me so hopefully it won't end up costing too much. Called one of the mechanics who used to work on this vehicle when it was part of a fleet and he was trying to convince me to let him do the entire manifold job because there was a process to burping the engine coolant that used a special vacuum tool. He said if the burping isn't done right that the engine will have hot spots. Is this true? I've got a hand powered vac tool if that's what he's talking about. Only place I could imagine applying vacuum would be at the reservoir cap. Could buy a second cheap cap and drill/adapt it to take a vacuum tube.
  9. ok thanks YT The big tube coming off the back of my EGR valve is mucho rusty so instead of making the separation there the plan is to remove the 2 (also very rusty) bolts holding the valve to the throttle body. Does the EGR valve gasket need to be replaced when the valve is separated from the throttle body or is reusing the old one ok?
  10. Has anybody worked with this particular type manifold? Does it take a pre-made gasket or maybe just RTV?
  11. To my surprise the manifold I unboxed didn't have embedded gaskets like I'd seen in all the videos. I assume this would be the version that requires a separate gasket. Unless there's better advice I'll prob just go with a Felpro. Actually, should I just return this one and get the embedded gasket version. Someone mentioned the seal on that one would probably never go bad.
  12. Thanks got the part now. I think my setup is a little different than the engines in the youtube videos I've been watching. I don't have the throttle cables and ports on either side of the aluminum part of the manifold..
  13. About to change out the intake manifold on this '11 crown vic and I don't have any torque values. Should've got the FSM when I got her back in May. Anybody happen to have access to this info? The bolts involved would be for the throttle body frame assembly, fuel rail, thermostat housing and manifold bolts. Also I've been told that while I've got everything off to check some kind of hose or connection that runs under the manifold. What's this piece possibly called? I'd rather have the part on hand when I get going on this.
  14. Thanks again for helping a stranger. Found the leak at the front driver side corner of the intake manifold. Really wish it wasn't so cold out now. Any last advice on an inexpensive source for an OEM intake mainfold? Considering how much this car is driven I better stay away from after market.
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