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bradleyheathhays

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About bradleyheathhays

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Mississippi Valley
  • Location
    Lexington, Ky
  • Current Vehicle
    '11 Vic '96 Cherokee '02 Taurus '11 Grizzly 700
  1. Have a '11 Crown Vic with 290k miles and I've been having a problem with the windows fogging up all the way around. The defrost seems to be working about half the time. On humid rainy days it'll work for say a half hour keeping the windows clear, then the windows will fog hard for 10-15 mins. And then it might decide to start working again, back and forth it goes. When I started it just now the compressor clutch turns when the a/c is turned on, although I haven't had a chance to observe it when the windows are fogging. A secondary problem it has is that it only blows air through the vents on the front of the dash, straight out into the cabin. The air flows only very weak out the defrost vent at the windshield or the floor. It does this on all settings. Although this might contribute somewhat to the problem, it seems like the a/c does completely cut out as the windows will still fog hard with the a/c set to on and on full fan. When it cuts off the air in the cabin feels immediately humid. One that that helps somewhat is to turn the temp toward cooler and it seems to not fog as much and gives it a chance to maybe clear the fog some. Any idea what's causing this or what I should do to start testing?
  2. Just found how to tell if I have a limited slip or not. Still not sure about what additive to use.
  3. Many thanks YT. 1 - How would I know if I have a limited slip diff and what kind of additive should I add to the new diff fluid if I do? 2 - Not sure what a clear flood is
  4. Got a few questions here so thought I'd ask them all at once. Have a '11 Vic base model and the local shop just did an evaluation telling me all the stuff that needs looked over... 1 - REAR DIFF FLUID DIRTY - I've changed out rear diff fluid once before on my Cherokee with the Chrysler 8.25 axle. Is doing this with the Vic about the same procedure?...Take off the diff cover and catch the fluid...drain and spray out diff with brake cleaner...clean the mating surface and replace plate with new gasket, then pump new diff fluid in the hole, then plug with stopper? It's a simple procedure on the Jeep. I'm just wondering if there's any hiccups I need to be warned about before getting into it. 2 - DIRTY THROTTLE PLATE - Can I clean this using a solvent and tooth brush leaving the TB on or should I take the whole thing off to make sure nothing gets into the engine. What solvent to use? 3 - LOOSE LEFT FRONT SWAY BAR - I've got some looseness in the steering and wondering if this could be causing it. Any tricks or advice to changing this out? 4 - ZERKS - There's lots of zerks on my Jeep to be attended to every year but I'm not so sure about the Vic since I'm just getting to know the car. What zerks does the Vic have I need to be aware of and greasing?
  5. Bought an '11 Vic with the 4.6L back in June and a few months back I tried to change out the plugs. All came out ok except for cyl 4 which only cranked out 1/4 turn. Had a shop take it out and they said they had to redo the threads. I've seen videos where you can remove a stuck plug by drilling into it somehow, but because this was in the 4 position and hard to get to I'm guessing they just power cranked it out. Not sure but I'm guessing those threads are compromised now. Well, this past weekend that same plug blew out of cyl 4. Inspection reveals a coil and boot jammed up underneath the fuel rail and a plug that I fished out without any turning. When I go to install a new plug it just sits on top of the threads and turns without going in. So I guess what's happened is that the plug rotated most of the way out but when it got to the last couple threads the compression blew it out the rest of the way, and that it's just the top few threads in the hole that are damaged. Inspection of the plug reveals that most of the threads are intact except for the 2-3 that are closest to the element. So my question is...should I try to fix this myself or just take it to a shop? Some kind of tap tool would probably fix it, but since it's the beginning threads that are boogered it'd probably have to start from the inside of the cylinder. I really don't have a clue as to how to approach this.
  6. '11 Crown Vic 4.6 here and it seems I've got a real squeaky a/c compressor pulley. I don't have a lot of experience with this car but the noise changes noticeably when the comp clutch kicks in and out, and a close listen seems to locate the sound right at that pulley. The sound is always there whether the a/c def is on or not. What needs to be replaced? The entire clutch assembly, or possibly just the pulley?
  7. Got into it and it seems like my internal intake door wasn't opening at all so I disconnected and wired it open and the heat got much better. For the external I just opened the top cowl and put a zip lock bag over the vent and covered with a big sponge. The top cowl squeezes it down and it'll be easy to remove. Since my internal door had been stuck closed I guess all the air coming through the vents was outside air. Wiring that door open definitely seemed to improve overall airflow. There's probably some other door issues in the dash because when it's set to floor it only comes out the vents. Setting it to defrost only gets air coming out the vents as well. Unfortunately the exhaust wasn't leaking so I'm not sure if this is gonna fix it or not. There's some duct work in the engine bay going from the fan to the center of the firewall. I wonder if a break somewhere in there could be the problem.
  8. Ok good deal thanks for the explanation. Hopefully I'll get something to work.
  9. Thanks for the advice but I'm not sure I follow. Far as I know the re-circulation intake vent only adds air to the vent system that's already in the vehicle. I'm not sure how this would stop air from coming in from the exterior intake vent. On another note...I've been told elsewhere I shouldn't do this because that exterior intake is the only way air gets into the car from the heater and AC coils. Is this true? I was thinking if I shut off the EXterior intake and wired the INterior intake open this would set things straight.
  10. I have an '11 Vic that's leaking exhaust right where the exhaust manifold connects and the problem is it's getting into the cabin by way of the air heat / vent system. When the cars moving I get no exhaust in the vents at all. It only happens when I'm sitting still. For the time being (cold weather), instead of fixing the exhaust I'd just like to block the outside cabin air intake. Here's a pic taken through the outside air vents on the pass side right above the blower motor.. Is the wire mesh opening seen under the vent fins the only intake for the cabin air? My best idea is to cut some kind of hard plastic to match the shape and attach it with plastic epoxy resin. Exhaust smell in the cabin is fairly strong. Are there any other openings into the vent system I should be concerned about? I have an '11 Vic that's leaking exhaust right where the exhaust manifold connects and the problem is it's getting into the cabin by way of the air heat / vent system. When the cars moving I get no exhaust in the vents at all. It only happens when I'm sitting still. For the time being (cold weather), instead of fixing the exhaust I'd just like to block the outside cabin air intake. Here's a pic taken through the outside air vents on the pass side right above the blower motor.. Is the wire mesh opening seen under the vent fins the only intake for the cabin air? My best idea is to cut some kind of hard plastic to match the shape and attach it with plastic epoxy resin. Exhaust smell in the cabin is fairly strong. Are there any other openings into the vent system I should be concerned about?
  11. Also, is it necessary to take the steering wheel off to do this heater core swap? One person says it is, but in the youtube videos they just drop the column and pull the dash out far enough on the right side to trade pieces.
  12. Thanks for that confirmation fuzzy. I've had someone else tell me that too so hopefully these videos are accurate. After some more thinking I'm sure now, this can only be a bad heater core. Is the heater core one of those parts where you should always replace with OEM? If it makes any difference my mileage is at 280k and it does about 25k city miles a year, although the transmission is relatively new. I found a motorcraft model from rockauto for $100 w/ express shipping, but locally I'm finding Murray and Carquest versions for about $35. Tight budget and no time right now so the cheaper and faster the better.
  13. Guess I might as well settle in here as a regular the way this cars going. Got a 2011 Vic w 280k that seems to have developed a heater box coolant leak over the course of a couple hours yesterday. Defrost stopped working (in the rain) and eventually steam started pouring out the dash vents. The engine began to overheat same time the steam started so I pulled it over to cool off for an hour and nurse myself back to health with a beer. Got back in for the leg home and noticed about 1/4 cup of coolant on the pass floor board mat. So it was no surprise when she started overheating again after about 3-4 miles. The reservoir drank about 2 gals of distilled water and that got her the rest of the way in. Testing back at the house reveals a pouring leak coming out the bottom of the car right on top of the cat converters way back at the firewall. Crawling underneath, the leak was seen to be coming from a short 1" tube that sticks out from the firewall right above the cat. Not for sure but I would almost bet this is a drainage tube for when the heater core springs a leak. How likely is this to be my heater box (don't see how it couldn't be) and what do I start doing to get it swapped out? Just got the big heavy shop manual so that'll be a help. I've seen some youtube heater core swap out videos but the closest they come to my year is maybe a 2003.
  14. Feels like I'm always making baby steps here but I guess that's the way it is when you're learning a new vehicle. After no small effort of getting everything over to my buddy's heated garage for the job I take everything off back to the 15mm crash bracket bolt, the one you can't see, and it just wouldn't budge. Used both a swivel head and wrench ratchet. Seems like I was able to get a good hold both times but when I went to twist the heads acted like they might've been rounded off. So I pulled out and put everything the f back together. Talked to a mechanic close by who will work on just the bolt for me so hopefully it won't end up costing too much. Called one of the mechanics who used to work on this vehicle when it was part of a fleet and he was trying to convince me to let him do the entire manifold job because there was a process to burping the engine coolant that used a special vacuum tool. He said if the burping isn't done right that the engine will have hot spots. Is this true? I've got a hand powered vac tool if that's what he's talking about. Only place I could imagine applying vacuum would be at the reservoir cap. Could buy a second cheap cap and drill/adapt it to take a vacuum tube.
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