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bradleyheathhays

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About bradleyheathhays

  • Rank
    New Member

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  • Region
    U.S. Mississippi Valley
  • Location
    Lexington, Ky
  • Current Vehicle
    '11 Vic '96 Cherokee '02 Taurus '11 Grizzly 700

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  1. bradleyheathhays

    Cataclean?

    2011 Crown Vic here with 305k miles, and today my engine light comes on. Scan at the local Advanced comes up with 4 codes on the cat converter. Guy says I need to get something called Cataclean and run it through the gas tank to correct the problem. Is it worth doing this...will it make the engine run better or get better gas mileage? Should I use Cataclean or some other product to get this done?
  2. So my Mom drives a 2002 Ford Taurus that I believe has one of the Takata airbags that have been killing people. So far her car hasn't been recalled for the airbag, but I know this recall is being done piece meal as they can't do them all at once, and since the recall applies to the year right close to hers I suspect hers eventually will be recalled as well. Either way I don't want to take the chance, and here's why... The explanation for why these things are going off is there's some defect in the manufacturing that when the air bag is exposed to humid conditions and lots of temp fluctuations, something in them weakens and there they go. Mom's Taurus has a windshield leak so, even though it's never smelled, there's always been a virtual puddle of water in driver's side floor board. So the inside of the car has always been humid, just like in the airbag explosion scenarios. So, for the time being, until she gets into another car, I'd like to disconnect her airbag to be on the safe side. She is an amazingly vigilant driver, never even a speeding ticket, and the risk of her rear ending someone is virtually non-existent. How would I go about disabling an airbag on a 2002 Ford Taurus? Or, alternatively, how do I open the steering wheel column, or front of the steering wheel, which might be part of the disabling process itself, and identify if Mom's airbag is indeed one of the defective types?
  3. I bought a 2011 Crown Vic with 300k miles 12 mos ago and I'm wondering how to approach servicing the timing belt. I know very little of it's past maintenance records other than what I've done with it this past year. Basically I'm wondering if I should go ahead and attempt to replace it now, or wait til something starts to go wrong. I don't know how timing belts typically go bad...if they just break or start to stretch or what. If this is an interference engine I'm imagining a fairly bad event so I'd like to get educated and be pro active about it. Second...Scotty Kilmer teaches that the worst wear an engine sees after changing the oil is before the oil gets pumped back into the filter and then into the engine components during the first engine restart. But he says if you disable the ignition spark somehow when cranking for the first time again, the lack of combustion in the cylinders helps with reducing this kind of wear quite a bit. I don't have an owner's manual and I'm not sure what fuse to pull to disable combustion ignition, or if removing a fuse would be the best way to do this. Any opinions on how this should be done?
  4. bradleyheathhays

    300k mile old diff fluid

    Big thanks for the help guys. How does my rear end perform differently with the clutches worn out, or put another way what kind of performance enhancement would I expect if I replaced the clutches?
  5. I have a '11 Crown Vic with 300k miles on it and my rear diff fluid looks like this... [PIC] Been watching some utube vids on how to change this fluid out but after a visit to the local Advance store I've got some questions. Up til now, forums on the net have led me to believe that all former police cars (which is what mine is) need 75w-140 fluid with friction modifier, but after giving them my VIN at Advance the computer comes back with a fluid suggestion of 80w-90. Here's the diff tag... [PIC] I believe that shows a 3 (L or 1)? 27 which indicates a 3.27 gear ratio, and then an 88 after, which indicates the 8.8 axle. Not sure what that SYN means, unless it means synchronous? This car is driven VERY sparingly, never hard, and operates in a climate that can get up to 95F in the summer. When the rear is jacked up and one rear wheel is spun, the other moves in the opposite direction. So my first question is... what weight fluid should I use? Also, I need confirmation if I should use a friction modifier. Next is how to go about changing the oil out. I'm being lazy here and after watching a vid on how you can extract 80% of the diff fluid out the fill hole by using a flexible hose I'm thinking about just doing it that way. But if you guys think it's necessary to get all that old fluid out I'll take plate off and do it the regular way. And lastly, if I take the plate off, should I spray all the gears down with brake cleaner to get all the old fluid out, or just let it drain for a while and call it good?
  6. bradleyheathhays

    Problem w/ intermittent defrost a/c

    After I took the gauges off I noticed one of the schrader valves was hissing, and now the system is down to 0 psi. So I believe a faulty valve has been the culprit all along. Now that the system is down I'm going to replace both valves, but my regular schrader valve removal tool won't fit down on the valve. The stem of the valve is too long and the tool won't go down around it to twist it out. I need a tool with prongs longer to fit down into the recessed sides of the valve. Does this '11 Crown Vic have schrader valves or a different kind of valve? Also, when I go to fill the system with refrigerant, do I need to add any PEG oil or just add refrigerant up to the specified capacity?
  7. OK thanks YT I got it. After I took the gauges off I noticed one of the schrader valves was hissing, and now the system is down to 0 psi. So I believe a faulty valve has been the culprit all along. Now that the system is down I'm going to replace both valves, but my regular schrader valve removal tool won't fit down on the valve. The stem of the valve is too long and the tool won't go down around it to twist it out. I need a tool with prongs longer to fit down into the recessed sides of the valve. Does this '11 Crown Vic have schrader valves or a different kind of valve? Also, when I go to fill the system with refrigerant, do I need to add any PEG oil or just add refrigerant up to the specified capacity?
  8. bradleyheathhays

    Problem w/ intermittent defrost a/c

    Hooked the gauges up and it seems like I've got a low refrigerant condition. Before turning the engine on both gauges read about 75. After starting the engine and setting the AC on max you could really tell the compressor was cycling fast. The needles cycled every 5-6 seconds...one going up and the other down, then reversed. The blue gauge cycled between 22 and 38 PSI while the red went between 90-140. The outside temp was about 60 F. From what I've read, especially with the compressor cycling so fast, this indicates low refrigerant. Hopefully my compressor isn't hurt by running it for so long like this. How do I go about using this 2 gauge setup to add refrigerant? Should I add it through the middle hose somehow or get a can of 134 with a gauge on it and just add it directly from the can? And how do you know how much to put in?
  9. Hooked the gauges up and it seems like I've got a low refrigerant condition. Before turning the engine on both gauges read about 75. After starting the engine and setting the AC on max you could really tell the compressor was cycling fast. The needles cycled every 5-6 seconds...one going up and the other down, then reversed. The blue gauge cycled between 22 and 38 PSI while the red cycled between 90-140 PSI. The outside temp was about 60 F. From what I've read, especially with the compressor cycling so fast, this indicates low refrigerant. Hopefully my compressor isn't hurt by running it for so long like this. How do I go about using this 2 gauge setup to add refrigerant? Should I add it through the middle hose somehow or get a can of 134 with a gauge on it and just add it directly from the can? And how do you know how much to put in?
  10. Please see my above post. Addition...I agree I'd like to get the air flowing correctly first but I've got both a time and budget crunch and I believe if I can get my a/c fogging / luke cool air problem fixed everything will work well enough.
  11. bradleyheathhays

    Problem w/ intermittent defrost a/c

    I'm gonna assume my problem is being caused by low refrigerant and take a shot at fixing it as cheaply as I can. But at the same time I'd like to take steps at identifying where the leak might be. So what will this look like? Renting some gauges from the local car store and checking my refrigerant lines? How would you go about this and what readings should I be looking for? And then if things read low I would get a can of refrigerant with leak revealing dye and put it in the system? Sorry I'm so remedial here, first time working on an a/c system.
  12. I'm gonna assume my problem is being caused by low refrigerant and take a shot at fixing it as cheaply as I can. But at the same time I'd like to take steps at identifying where the leak might be. So what will this look like? Renting some gauges from the local car store and checking my refrigerant lines? How would you go about this and what readings should I be looking for? And then if things read low I would get a can of refrigerant with leak revealing dye and put it in the system? Sorry I'm so remedial here, first time working on an a/c system.
  13. bradleyheathhays

    Problem w/ intermittent defrost a/c

    Thanks. Any ideas?
  14. Have a '11 Crown Vic with 290k miles and I've been having a problem with the windows fogging up all the way around. The defrost seems to be working about half the time. On humid rainy days it'll work for say a half hour keeping the windows clear, then the windows will fog hard for 10-15 mins. And then it might decide to start working again, back and forth it goes. When I started it just now the compressor clutch turns when the a/c is turned on, although I haven't had a chance to observe it when the windows are fogging. A secondary problem it has is that it only blows air through the vents on the front of the dash, straight out into the cabin. The air flows only very weak out the defrost vent at the windshield or the floor. It does this on all settings. Although this might contribute somewhat to the problem, it seems like the a/c does completely cut out as the windows will still fog hard with the a/c set to on and on full fan. When it cuts off the air in the cabin feels immediately humid. One that that helps somewhat is to turn the temp toward cooler and it seems to not fog as much and gives it a chance to maybe clear the fog some. I'm sure it's not my heater core leaking as I just had to replace it a few months back. Any idea what's causing this or what I should do to start testing?
  15. Have a '11 Crown Vic with 290k miles and I've been having a problem with the windows fogging up all the way around. The defrost seems to be working about half the time. On humid rainy days it'll work for say a half hour keeping the windows clear, then the windows will fog hard for 10-15 mins. And then it might decide to start working again, back and forth it goes. When I started it just now the compressor clutch turns when the a/c is turned on, although I haven't had a chance to observe it when the windows are fogging. A secondary problem it has is that it only blows air through the vents on the front of the dash, straight out into the cabin. The air flows only very weak out the defrost vent at the windshield or the floor. It does this on all settings. Although this might contribute somewhat to the problem, it seems like the a/c does completely cut out as the windows will still fog hard with the a/c set to on and on full fan. When it cuts off the air in the cabin feels immediately humid. One that that helps somewhat is to turn the temp toward cooler and it seems to not fog as much and gives it a chance to maybe clear the fog some. Any idea what's causing this or what I should do to start testing?
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