Jump to content

New Facebook Pages

Ford Mach E

Ford Thunder


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About waynezo

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Atlantic
  • Location
  • Current Vehicle
    2008 Milan 2.3L 4cyl
  1. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    Yes it was the evap sensor. Tech said he was getting 38 degrees at the vents but never lower than 71 degrees from the evap sensor so the comp never disengaged freezing up the system. He said usually they default to -40 degrees. This is the first one he saw go the other direction and he has done a ton of them. Thanks again to all who responded.
  2. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    Compressor disengages when I turn AC button off. When I turn the thermostat knob into the red I get heated air but AC button stays lit and compressor stays engaged. Compressor doesn't cycle off. Is this normal? Do I have a Variable displacement compressor? After a 40 min run I get weak airflow. If I turn off the AC button within 2 min strong airflow returns. Sounds like you are right evaporator is icing up. I will have to take it back to the shop. Can the icing issue be caused by anything other than the temp sensor?
  3. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    OK thanks. I will do that. If it is an icing issue is there anything besides the evap sensor that would cause it? I heard the evap sensor is a $20 part but 8 hours labor cause you have to pull the dash. I can change the blower motor myself but I guess it is a strange coincidence for it to fail right after I had the other work done. Thanks for the advice.
  4. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    I don't know if he checked the sensor. Is there a way I can check for freezing? Sometimes it starts slow and then spins up to full speed. When the airflow is weak I don't hear any fan noise.
  5. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    I had the repair done and AC blows ice cold. Now after about 20 mins on the highway when I put the fan on high airflow is weak. If I turn it off for a few minutes it returns to full blast. Sometimes it starts weak then after 30 secs blows strong. I suspect the blower motor is starting to fail. I inspected the connector to the resistor without disconnecting it. The wires look pristine not melted. The blower motor was replaced aprox 5 years ago. All my fan speeds work. Should I replace just the blower motor or both the motor and resistor?
  6. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    I put the car in the shop the tech said I have a blockage and he found metal in the system. He referred to it as the "black death". He said the evaporator is ok but I should replace compressor, expansion valve, and condenser. He said the dryer is located in the condenser and the labor is the same so I should pay a little more for a new condenser since a lot of debris lands in the condenser. Sounds reasonable to me. Your Thoughts? Any opinions or advice are appreciated.
  7. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    Thanks for all the great advice. My car has the expansion valve. I spotted it on the firewall where the lines attach. One other symptom I have had. Previously When sitting at a red light in gear when the compressor kicks on the engine shudders. Since I have noticed it short cycling it shudders less. Could that be a sign of the compressor wearing out and putting less strain on the engine? What is a good scan tool? I'm guessing I would have to buy that. Autozone probably won't loan it.
  8. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    I tightened the schrader valve and it stopped leaking. Early this morning with ambient temp at 75 degrees I got 35 lowside and 157 highside. After adding approx 4 oz of refrigerant with ambient temp at 80 degrees I get lowside 40 and highside 225. AC is still short cycling. Should I worry system is now overcharged?
  9. waynezo

    AC Problem 08 Milan 4 cyl 83k

    Autozone will lend me manifold gauges. can you recommend a good tutorial for diagnosis. All fan speeds work on control head.
  10. Compressor is short cycling. Still cooling the cabin, but poorly. I checked Refrigerant. It is not low. I suspect the AC clutch switch. I found it on the smaller high pressure tube near the firewall.(part# MOTORCRAFT YH39 Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 6E5Z19D594AA) Is this the only pressure switch or are there 2? Is there a way I can diagnose with out putting in the shop. Looks like I can change the switch myself. When the compressor is engaged air is ice cold. What else would cause these symptoms? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  11. The car idles smooth between 600 to 700 rpm except after sitting at a stoplight for a 60 secs with AC on then drops to aprox 550rpm shudders and goes back to 600-700. this is not constant but frequent. With AC off car idles fine. AC blows cold. I have cleaned MAF sensor and run the idle relearn procedure. Is the best next step to clean the throttle body and can I do that without removing it. If so what is the best online tutorial? Do gas additive injector cleaners help or are they hype? Could the car need plugs at 65K? I'm trying to find things I can do myself before I put the car in the shop. The last repair I did was a water pump on a 1989 sable about 20 years ago Any advice or opinions are appreciated
  12. After cleaning MAS I sprayed some CRC MAF cleaner into the wiring harness connector. It was tight going back on and when I pulled it off the red female piece stayed on the MAF sensor. Inside the wiring harness connector I saw a green rubber washer slightly out of place at the bottom. I repositioned it and connected the harness (still tight) then secured it with the sliding clip. Car seems to be running ok. I suspect the CRC cleaner unglued something or swelled the rubber in the connector. Can I leave it like that or do need to get a pigtail harness repair kit? Any advice or opinions are appreciated