jimp

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Yes it would, but a shorted F150 with enclosed body is a Bronco. I know they only make what they feel they can make money producing and I guess it's not going to happen, to many different wants from customers. I would like a full size Bronco, a lot of people want a basic smaller version, can't make everbody happy and still make money.

That would look like a Bronco, but the wheelbase would still be to long. I can almost turn with my TJ in the huge 96 Bronco but my Expedition and 250 need a lot more room to turn. Just wishing for a Bronco type Ford, I know not likely to happen, so the 96 is scheduled to be rebuilt next year with newer F150 parts.

I own a 96 Bronco and a 2014 Expedition. I have given up on the new Ford Bronco (I know next year). So how about a "off road" version of the Expedition. Chop 2 or 3 feet of the length and lift it 4". I like my Bronco but it is lacking compaired to the new cars. I know it will never be a true off road vehicle (that why I own my Wranger) but ford needs "car" that has some ground clearance and is not 100 feet long. (I love you Explorer ad, wait until someone takes it out west and gets in a flash flood and files a law suit because it can overcome mother nature. I have rented one and it is use less as an "off road" car, could not even get it up the back side of Monarch Pass because of lack of clearance, so it does not fill the need).

Your welcome, The first one is "engine" and the second is the transfer case. Last one is the gas tank. All the holes were present and you could use hardware store nuts and bolts, but the spring nuts make it a lot easier. Keep in mind that this is for a 2014 not a 2015, I don't know if they are the same.

It was right on top of the take offs, easy to find. 9L3Z-5D032-A SKID PLATE ONE NEEDED 7L1Z-7E063-AC PLATE ONE NEEDED 6L1Z-9054-AA STRAP ASY ONE NEEDED 6L1Z-9054-BA STRAP ASY ONE NEEDED 7L1Z-9A147-C PLATE ONE NEEDED Bolts that you might be able to reuse (I have a bag full of take off bolts). W503932-S439 BOLT 8 NEEDED W503943-S900 BOLT/WASHER 4 NEEDED W506435-S439 BOLT 4 NEEDED W520824-S439 NUT SPRING 4 NEEDED W520834-S439 NUT SPRING 4 NEEDED W705047-S441 NUT 4 NEEDED W712349-S439 NUT 6 NEEDED I also had extra new nuts and bolts so the needed is the number in the bag not what you really needed but most were under $1.00 so I did not worry about a few extra. I went back and looked at my OP it sounded like the dealer put them on, I installed them. The engine and transfer case are quick and easy about 5 to 10 min. each. The gas tank required removal of original straps and drive shaft, it took about an hour. ( I have all the needed tools and a lift so likely be longer without). Cost just under $600 and installed on 2014 KR Expedition. As I said the gas tank skid is ABS plastic.

I added three, engine, transfer case and fuel tank (plastic skid plate). I will see if I can find the part numbers, it might take a day or two (they are in my shop some where). If you are planing on doing anything that needs skid plates and have the ablity you might consider making your own, it is on my list even after buying factory. If you want and are not in a hurry I will take some pictures so you can see what I am talking about ( I am assuming I can post pictures, new to the forum)

I still don't think that it is one of Ford's best ideas. However, as in my original post, am I just unlucky and got a car that missed one of the rust proofing steps? Since it does not seem to be a big issue I guess that's the case. It still pisses me off that Ford let it happen and the timing. I like to keep my cars for a long time and this one not likely to make my goal. The 96 F 250 is rust free and my Bronco has had to have the rear wheel wells replaced not bad for 20 years old.

I could not see inside the rocker. The first I noted was raised paint a couple weeks ago as it rusted from the inside out. I now have about 20 rust blisters about ready to pop open. I wash the car often and if they were visable I would have done something about it when it was under waranty.

All the cars I have seen before had channel drains in the pinch seam. This allowed moisture to drain while limiting the amount of road salt and water that could get inside. My Focus has 5 or 6 holes on the bottom of the rocker that opens directly to the inside of the rocker allowing salt and water to freely enter the rockers as you drive down the road, I still think it's not one of Ford's better ideas.

I know it's been rusting for a long time from the inside, it just broke through to the outside.

I had skid plated added to my 2014 (they are available at the dealer). They are more gravel deflectors than skid plates, none of them would support the vehicle weight (of course my reference is old TJ that I can drag acrosss anything).

I have a 2010 Focus and it's just passed 5.5 years (6 months after rust warrante ends) and both rocker panels are rusted through front to back. I was wanting to know if this is normal or am I just very lucky? I live where they use salt, but it very seldom got into my garage without a wash (2 blocks from car wash) until I moved this spring. I looked it over and it looks like they made no attemp to keep water out of the rockers, great big drain holes (also allow salt and water to get inside). When I sprayed up in these holes the water just leaked out all along the bottom seam. This does not seem like a good idea. I have since used a rust conversion spray inside the panels to slow it down, but the car is only worth about $4,000 or less so it's drive till dead. I am brand loyal (2014 KR Expedition, 1996 EB Bronco and 1996 F 250 4x4) but this is putting a real strain on that loyalty.