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Everything posted by YT90SC

  1. YT90SC

    2015 Focus SE Transmission

    You sound like you might need a clutch, but I can't tell over the interweb. A TCM issue will usually set a check engine light or a "service transmission" fault message. The only way to know for sure is to properly diagnose it. The clutch adaptive/touch points have to be reset with a scan tool and then a drive cycle has to be performed. It's not rocket surgery, but experience with the DPS6 is a must, as is knowing what to look for inside the clutch housing during the repair in addition to just slapping a clutch in. Has it had recall 18S32 performed? Have you ever had anything done to it related to the clutch? Have you tried scuffing the clutch? If you are a regular customer in good standing with your dealership, they can try and get help for you from Ford, but from my experience, it isn't gonna happen. I've had newer cars with lower miles than yours in my bay and they said no, or only offered a couple hundred dollars. Worst case scenario, parts are around a $1200, but typically my tickets run around $600 in parts. Labor is 8.0 hours in most labor time standard manuals (Motor, Chilton, AllData) plus diagnosis. The settlement was a few bucks to the original owners, based on how many times your car had been repaired. More times meant more money, if I remember right. But you had to have documented repairs to receive reimbursement, and I am fairly sure the time to enroll is past. There were no "Ford has to fix your car out of warranty" clauses. The TCM extended coverage (10 years or 150k miles) was to avoid a recall, rather than part of any court settlement. Ford's stance will be this, pretty much whoever you talk to: Dealers have loaners and access to rentals. Clutch diagnosis and replacement under warranty pays 5.8 hours on a Focus; easily less than a day start to finish. There is no reason you shouldn't have been able to get it in and get it repaired.
  2. Depends on what you call define as improvement. More engine output and trans cogs? Agreed 100%. But durability they aren't even on the same planet. The last of the Splitports were pretty sorted out. The Cologne was getting there by 05 but still had issues that plagued it throughout its run. The 4R70W of that era was awesome compared that to the shitshow that the 5R55W/S/N always was. To make a reliable 5R, you have to rely *heavily* on the aftermarket because Ford never improved its weakest internal points. (OD planet carrier thrust washers, solenoid pack and servo bores) On the plus side, they made a lot of house payments for me. I'm not rose coloring the 3 generations of Fox. They were cooked spaghetti as far as the chassis was concerned and the interior quality was poor. But what I am saying is that the 05 car could have been SO much more before the bean counters got ahold of it. And the bean counters would have had less input with pony rivals on the market.
  3. Until Camaro relaunched and Challenger came back, they rested on their laurels instead of the constant advancement they are *having* to do now. The 05 could have been better, but it didn't *have* to be. The 4.0 and 5R55W/S/N being shining examples.
  4. They are on all the old Zetec based architecture. Duratec based engines have always had chains. The old LIMA and the 1.9 sohc in escort were belt as well. GM's current Ecotec are all chain I believe.
  5. 100% TRUE. Competition breeds advancement. When Camaro was gone and Challenger had yet to launch, Ford phoned in as much as they could with Mustang because they were the only standing pony.
  6. Mustang needs a serious diet. That ass has been FAR too fat since they moved off Fox-III. Heck-Kitty Redeye is 4400lb. Camaro ZL1 is + or - 3900. Staying in the ballpark with the Bowtie has to happen, especially with the fact that this will most likely be on the lower half of the 700s, not the upper.
  7. 1.5, 1.6 are interference engines with NON oil bath timing belts. I believe there is a spec for the 1.6(150k miles if I recall), but I don't believe there is a written spec for the 1.5. Either way, if I had one, I wouldn't let it go past 125k. I believe there is a time limit on the 1.6 also, but I cannot remember it off top of my head.
  8. FFS YOU NEED FUSES NEAR THE BATTERY TOO! Unless you like electrical fires.
  9. As long as the car stays significantly lighter than tubby over at Dodge...
  10. This was the fix for carbon monoxide issues in the rear on the current car.
  11. Nothing says "quality" like having the hood fall on your head when you are under it. Won't happen with a rod. Plus 99.5% of buyers of these will never open the hood themselves so rod vs strut is moot. Be more concerned with what they chose for a brake booster. Seriously. Thought they learned their lesson, but apparently not.
  12. YT90SC


    It could very well be the phaser itself unable to move correctly. Yes, the bolt moves some because that is how the phaser varies timing of the cam in relation to the chain. The "oil gauge" means nothing. It literally is a mechanical idiot light that shows low at 7-9 psi. Will read the same all the time as long as it has that 7-9 psi. Engine HAS to have 20 in the real world, HOT, at idle, in gear so there is a huge gap between the "gauge" and what it needs to operate correctly. Black marks - did you verify that the links were laid out right on the chains, especially since they are aftermarket parts? Are you sure that the "L" for driver's side and "R" for passenger's side were both pointed up when you timed it? The phaser can be changed out without removing the timing cover with the proper tools.
  13. YT90SC


    There are a LOT of possibilities. Miss-timed, bent phaser trigger wheel, damaged phaser, stuck control solenoid, low oil pressure. Here in lies the issue with hammering in parts without actually diagnosing it first. Before you started, did you check base engine oil pressure? Ford claims with the updated solenoids, 15 psi is ok, but in the real world, if it is under 20 PSI hot, in gear, you have bigger problems like scored cam caps or damaged crank thrust bearing. Sometimes a high volume oil pump like the Melling M360-HV will band aid the issues if the engine is not too far gone. If it runs rough immediately, it is either out of time, the phaser has completely failed or the solenoid is stuck. With the solenoids, DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET PARTS. All the aftermarket solenoids I have come across are poor copies of the NON-updated Ford solenoids. You MUST use the updated Ford solenoids. Chances are, even with poor quality solenoids, it is a base timing issue (easy to miss a tooth) or possibly the phaser itself. Once in a while the gasket will blow out of the control block behind the phaser and cause issues or the tiny oil passages in the control block will get gunked up from filter media coming apart (cough cough Fram cough cough). Something to consider are phaser lockouts. They are non-emissions legal, but work fine for an "offroad" vehicle. What method did you use to time it? You lay the chain out straight and mark the end links. Then put one marked end link on the crank timing mark and the other marked end link on the cam timing mark. It is easy to mis-time them.
  14. They have been teasing it since the 2004 concept.
  15. YT90SC

    Battery Size anyone?

    Higher storage capacity doesn't mean higher output voltage.
  16. Pushed launch back. Again. This thing was originally supposed to debut in what, 2005?
  17. YT90SC


    The "mil eliminator" or "extensions" go in the wiring at the catalyst monitor sensors. They are a capacitor and a resistor that fool the PCM into thinking that the cat is functional. Spark plug defoulers do the same thing but mechanically. The catalyst monitor sensor is removed, they are screwed in, and the sensor screwed back into the defouler. This moves the sensor out of the exhaust stream and makes a small eddy of exhaust near the sensor which will also fool the PCM. Neither are emissions legal. How is lacquer thinner gonna do anything to fix a damaged cat?
  18. I remember when people were lambasting MN-12's curb weight. Now it's almost identical to the current Mustang.
  19. x2 to what Fordtech said. DOT 4 "LV" (Motorcraft p/n PM-20) is the only specified fluid. I wouldn't mix in anything else.
  20. YT90SC


    Sounds like pure snake oil. Cats themselves will only set P0420 and P0430. As long as you drove it with the misfire, the cats are most likely toast, but knowing what the other two codes were would help in that diagnosis. Spark plug defoulers installed on the post cat O2s or "mil eliminators" are the only cheap, *non emissions compliant* way to keep the check engine lamp off.
  21. YT90SC

    Bad Fuel Injector 2019 Ranger

    Your post is to check NON- Direct injected fuel systems on old body (2012 and back) Rangers. DI fuel systems are different and have more factors that must be taken into account.
  22. YT90SC

    Bad Fuel Injector 2019 Ranger

    That is the fuel tube that runs between the HPFP and the HP rail. It is "one time use" per Ford. They changed policy recently, and if "one time use" parts are not replaced they will deny the claim. We are having a LOT of issues stemming from this policy.
  23. Timing belts in the 1.0 Ecoboost, 1.5 Ecoboost , 1.6 N/A, 1.6 Ecoboost, and the 3.0 Diesel uses 2, one for the main belt and one for the HPFP. Fordtech is right. Leave a 2 valve alone unless it rattles on startup or you find guide parts in the oil.
  24. YT90SC

    3Yr Old Optima Vs. New Battery

    New F-150s already come with AGM batteries. Your optima is probably close to the end of its useful service life anyway.
  25. YT90SC

    Bad Fuel Injector 2019 Ranger

    Yes! "no code" is an oversimplification by a service writer because not everyone will understand what really goes on with diagnosis. And by that I mean both customers and service writers/managers. Many transmission issues don't set codes. Lots of Ecoboost issues won't set codes as well. Most "wrench" lights won't store codes. Codes are just a clue for diagnosis. They are NOT the only path to it, nor should they be.