YT90SC

Adaptive Cruise has a radar module behind the bumper cover that monitors the distance to the car ahead of you. Something is wrong with the module or the mount. You will need to visit your dealer.

Standard? Touch screen?

The ones that are not rotted too bad, take out with a socket. The stud usually comes with. The ones that the nuts are rotted on, best to use a "twist" socket: https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-30109-13-Piece-Twist-Socket/dp/B00C3IFM5K If you can't get them off, like Twintornados said, use a blue wrench, but then you have to wait for them to cool which EATS time. Broken studs that are above the surface use a small twist socket if it will bite OR a stud remover like these: http://corporate.cornwelltools.com/webcat/products/CBS4MSRIS-%2d-4-Piece-Metric-Stud-R%2d-I-Set.html IF they are broken off below the surface, a MIG or TIG to weld a nut/washer on is easiest and fastest. Drilling takes WAAAAY too long, goes through bits like mad, hard to access and generally SUCKS. I have seen a lot of shadetrees hit coolant passages trying to DIY, or had to helicoil when the drill got off of center, or worst of all, broke extractor off in stud, which is a whole new level of "OH $#!+!!!". If you feel you JUST GOTTA drill them, https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/manifold-drill-template-ford

I'm with you on diminishing returns. I also know it is Ford's way of things and always has been. Econoline used the 4r7Xx until it was finally dropped for 2015. Torqshift 5 started in 03, but only with 6.0L, and can't remember when they started using them in gas applications. In 2016 they finally went to 6r's only. They were the last to get Modulars, and then only 2 valve. Although 460 and 4R100 were available really late in the F53/59 too. In not changing powertrain options, you don't need to change cross member/mount locations and can use the same driveshafts. You also don't have to teach a bunch of new people to service new powertrain parts, just the updated portions.

Doesn't the HPOP reservoir housing still have the engine data on it?

Ok. The only Hellion cars I've seen are ones that got poorly swapped back to stock and trailered in, hoping that the piston fragments, wrist pins, and rod parts in the pan coupled with the obvious extremely recent PCM reprogramming would fly under warranty. I had no idea how they were actually supposed to be installed, and I have seen plenty of 'tuner' cars without them installed, ever. I figured they had a tube stretched out of the engine compartment to not heat soak the air entering the compressor housing, but I was wrong. Thank you for being so kind and understanding of me asking a simple question.

Where are they? Both compressor housing inlets have nothing on them.

Air filters. None on either turbo on the Hellion kitted car. That engine (and the turbos) wouldn't last 3 months in a daily sucking constant dirt.

And, a keen eye will see that this is not a daily/streetable car to begin with. It's missing something(s) VERY important.

Early 6.7 had a gasketed upper pan. All late 6.7 have sealant between the upper pan and block, and the lower to upper.

You need a much more capable scan tool. If the TCM were truly offline, it wouldn't start in neutral. It could still be a networking problem, a T/R sensor, a wiring problem, an internally shorted trans speed sensor... the list goes on.

Where to start.... First, the pump's primary role is to provide pressure to apply the clutches in the transmission. In the majority of transmissions it sits directly behind the torque converter and is also the serves as the stator support for the converter and the front support for innards of the transmission. If the pump didn't work, it wouldn't move. Literally. Your service advisor is wrong. Second, The noise may be the converter or the pump, or, if it has a TS-5, a cracked coast clutch drum, which would explain your noise and occasional shift issue. Your truck probably has a TS-6 though, I can't be certain without a vin. If I was in it, I would make the same repair, as you can't be 100% certain which is the culprit, so just replace them both while you are there. Having the pump out would give me the chance to inspect the clutches while I am there to see if there is any other issue before reassembly. Third, when repairing a trans under warranty the tech has to do a cost-cap analysis where the damaged parts are plugged into a matrix and it chooses to "repair" or "replace". The only override for its decision is the LTIS program, which you are WAY out of on time and miles. If cost cap says replace, your transmission will most likely be supplied as remanufactured, rather than new. A competent trans tech will do a better job than the remanufacturer. FInally, I understand your frustration with not being able to duplicate concerns. The tech is frustrated too. He spends an hour dicking with your vehicle every time it is in and doesn't get paid for it because he didn't fix anything -- he is paid commission and not hourly. This is the problem with noises. You hear it, the tech may not, and like playing password in kindergarten, you tell your advisor and the story changes or a detail is left out in the process of putting it on the RO and getting it to the tech. But what do I know, I'm just a shitty "STEALERSHIP" tech.

Commercially available foamy engine degreaser, or Simple Green and water, or even dish soap like Dawn mixed kind of strong with water. If you use the canned stuff, make sure it is cleaned off and *dry* before you start the truck when you are done. Diesels will run on any flammable fume they can get ahold of and you don't want the degreaser propellant or cleaner itself to get sucked in and have a backfire through the intake from the glowplugs, or runaway.

The secondary filter is a sealed unit, the plastic is cracked. This is NOT an uncommon issue with 6.7 and I agree that it is a failure of the material, usually on the casting line of the part. However, getting Ford to cover it is worse than pulling teeth, and I think it is only 12/12 on the filter itself, but I could be wrong. The recommended replacement interval is 15k miles or 3 IOLM indicated oil changes, which ever is first, so it it doubtful that gman has had it done already.

Anything with that chassis (Taurus, Edge, Explorer, Flex MKt, MKx, MKs) has 3 main issues. The PTU,. wheel bearings and water pumps. The water pump is under the timing cover, and is the idler for the chain. If not caught in time will lead to catastrophic engine failure. The good thing is that if it milkshakes, it can usually be saved as long as it runs and doesn't rattle. Specific to 07, probably needs the sensor trifecta in the transmission. (TR, TSS and OSS) as they were problematic. However, if they have been done, they most likely will never be an issue again. Should have probably had a tune up by now. If not, that needs to be done as well. Use only Motorcraft parts. We regularly see them with over 200k MILES on them with little issue other than normal service.

You should verify that it has oil pressure issue first with an actual mechanical gage. Oil pressure switches are always an issue. It would be foolish to do anything else first.

Talk about instant sales killer.

FWIW, They blame us too.

It's got plenty of length. It's misrouted. Can't blame engineering for an assembly f-up.

Unless it has been struck by debris or physically damaged in some other way, sensors rarely fail. Each sensor has three wires, a ganged power, ganged ground and a signal. One broken wire to any of the sensors and it will be inoperable for safety. They like to get rashed up in the bumper wiring, where the bumper wiring plugs into the chassis harness and where the wiring transitions into the engine compartment/over the fenderliner. You need to at least have the PAM codes read to have a clue where to start diagnostics of the wiring.

You heavily underestimate what the public is capable of or how little a fleet owned van is cared for by most drivers.

Transits are usually bought by fleets. ONE operator putting gas or DEF in the fuel tank (instant $10k non-warranty repair) will offset any fuel savings a long time.

Did you purchase an individual solenoid or solenoid body (7G391)? Solenoid bodies are flow tested and often come with fluid in them. All solenoids that are individually serviced for 6 speed transmissions are flow tested and assigned a flow rate number from 1 to 5, NH or NL. These Individual solenoids usually have a small amount of fluid on them, but are tightly wrapped in anti corrosion paper, inside a smaller plastic baggie or anti-static bag and inside a smallish logo'ed cardboard box or logo'ed plastic bag.

The Mazda B series rebadged in the U.S. as Ford Courier predated the larger, more capable 1983 Ranger and fit the slot Ranger eventually took over. It was an inexpensive, no nonsense, reliable, tough little pickup. That name still carries equity for Ford here and abroad - where they built Fiesta based sedan deliveries and trucklets until very recently under that moniker. You're instantly going to turn off most people over 35 with Maverick. May as well call it Granada or Windstar.

I have a soft spot in my heart for Mavericks, but folks still remember them as 70s shitboxes. Ranchero was a car. While it fits the defintion of what this is, you can't be 'tough' and use a car moniker. As for Sport Trac or Courier, the original Mazda built Couriers were what this should be if it makes production, so its the only historical name that makes sense. Otherwise name it something new and different.