YT90SC

Forgot to add with your mileage... go to your local auto parts store. Buy a can of MAF sensor cleaner and follow the instructions on how to use it. Only clean the sensor when COLD. As in the key has not even been turned on for several hours.

The 6F50 has been a relatively problem free transmission, though there are some issues with the early ones, most of which are relatively cheap to fix. And yes, intermittent diagnostics can be a terrible pain in the butt for the customer and the tech. First, does it have the latest PCM calibration installed? There are a host of trans improvements in the latest, from what the original was. There is absolutely no point in fighting a software issue by performing surgery. Second, in 08's the TSS and OSS sensors have a nasty habit of causing shift issues when cold. These are inside the front cover and involve the removal of the valve body. While there, it is also a good idea to install a new Manual Lever Position Sensor, especially on early builds as they can cause issues and require minimal time to replace once the valvebody has been removed. This will also require fluid as removal of the valvebody drains most of it. Again, before spending a lot on deep surgery, I'd reprogram the PCM to the latest level see if that makes an improvement, then replace the sensors that I described. Typically, most dealers will reprogram a PCM for an hour's labor. Labor for replacement of the sensors is in the 4.0 to 5.0 hour range.

Waloud, you most likely have a different style of RMST. I am betting that yours is integrated in the key and stangfvr yours has an additional fob for it? IF indeed that is the case, then they are both functioning as designed. Most people use RMST to heat or cool the cabin before they get in- that is the point, nothing else. Different shutdowns are provisions for different safety reasons. The brake shutdown is so no one can get it out of gear to steal it. The door open and key in ignition shutdowns are so MyKey functionality is not lost. You still have to put the key in the ignition to drive off, so I am not sure what the issue is? If it is the re-start, that is actually easier on the vehicle than forcing it to cold idle for 15 minutes.

That is how it is designed to work.

"Fox 3" a.k.a. "New Edge" cars.

Check engine lamp on? There may very well be an issue with the throttle body, or maybe a vacuum hose off causing the high idle. If a visual check doesn't show something off, the next step involves a scan tool and watching data to see what is out of whack. IDS has a throttle body check utility that can verify the throttle body operation.

Don't waste your time with a heli-coil. Get a Time-Sert kit. More expensive, but far better repair.

Some also say that this was a hat tip to the big wheels and lift community where there ARE certain state statutes that limit headlight height.

If it runs ok, it is unlikely to be a MAF. They can be cleaned easily and quickly using MAF cleaner. Follow the instructions on the can. I have several ideas like exhaust backpressure, DPFE malfunction, fuel pressure issue etc, but without a scan tool, you are going to be shooting in the dark at this point.

Why do people insist on putting the '79 grille on every Dent?

With ANY brake hoses (doesn't matter the make), if one fails they probably all will. Better look at the rears too. Escape brake hoses wear out at the ends, worse on the front but also on the rear. They will show wear for a significant amount of time before they do, they don't "just blow". A good check over at every oil change (as it should be) will easily spot fatigue in the hoses.

Which will still be ignored. Oil pressure warnings and knocking engines don't stop some people from ignoring warning messages. It is far better to force interaction so that, in a courtroom, no one can claim "I didn't know it was on/off"

Often owner's manuals are written before the car is finalized, and usually there is more than one printing of the owner's manual throughout the model year to make changes that might come with production changes. From a safety standpoint, the system should HAVE to be reset to operate. Simply switching to 'Normal' without driver interaction of some sort is just begging for a lawsuit. Why? Because people will ignore ANY and ALL warnings that the adaptive function is gone and the cruise is set to "normal"..... Hello back of a schoolbus! As for not re-engaging, if the system thinks it has compromised at all it should function to off as a fail safe. If it cannot verify distances, the back of a schoolbus is always waiting!

In a Ford, If it has a lever, it has a cable.

I did a little research. You're right. Adapting the "Dodge" trannies used with the ISB should work and is a far cry cheaper than clean sheeting.

Still a pretty big gamble to take for either maker. Heck maybe they do have something that they can use off the shelf, but I doubt it. Clean sheeting a new box is gonna run a lot of money per unit for a niche powertain for a niche player.

VERY true! You cannot just hack the aftertreatment systems off, the PCM is too smart for that. It has to be turned off with a tune. Most tuners package power with the removal of these systems. Here is the issue. The 6.7 HAS to be efficient to reduce soot. Reducing soot (smoke) not only uses more fuel for actual propulsion of the truck, it keeps the DPF cleaner for longer, resulting in fewer active regens. The nice thing about SCR is that it allows less EGR useage and more injection timing, meaning more power and less soot. This means that the aftermarket tuners don't have as much in the way of timing adjustments that they used to be able to play with to gain power without just throwing fuel at it.

The warranty on a customer pay transmission is 3 years/unlimited miles. The warranty on a transmission replaced under the bumper to bumper or powertrain warranty is the end of powertrain coverage or 12mo/12k miles, whichever is longer. What was the root cause of the transmission failure? Neither of the transmissions in the Escape should have repeat failures if they were repaired correctly and you are not damaging them by overheating or flat towing. Since you didn't say the build date of the Escape, I have a two part answer. If it is a 6F35 the fluid getting dark is a characteristic of the Mercon LV fluid. The stuff will discolor even if you leave it alone exposed to air. With the 6F35, you need to make sure that the PCM has the latest calibration. Also is it shifting poorly? It may or may not have received the upgraded valvebody with the improved solenoid pressure control valve. Though the suggested flush time is much longer, I usually recommend 30k miles. The 6F35 was supposed to have been able to be flat towed. It cannot without a cooling pump installed. No pump= failed transmissions. If it is a CD4E, the Mercon V fluid will age and lose redness, but shouldn't darken significantly. With low mileage failures in the CD4E, one should always replace the non-thermostatically controlled cooler lines with the set of them that is. I cannot recall the CD4E service interval, check the owner's manual.

You forgot the brake pressure switches in the early 90-'s through the mid 2000's... the tauraii cooling fan fires... the 1.6 ecoboost fires....

Actually the battery in the model S is located in the floorpan of the cabin, not underhood.

In the real world with the 6.7 you really won't see much of any difference. Most people who have been foolish enough to buy into the hype have been disappointed by MPG gains - many see no gain what so ever- some even report losses.

I fail to see how this is news. Batteries are still less flammable than lets say 10 to 20 gallons of gas in a single walled tank. Would a conventional car have survived the same incident?

This should be interesting. As far as I know, either Nissan or Toy have transmissions that will cope with the intended output. Though I imagine that Aisin has something that they will buy.

The NOx sensor operates in much the same manner as an HO2s. Allows closed loop control of the DEF injector via output of the sensor, post reaction. I don't know which method is used for detection as I asked several different sources and no one can give me a straight answer, but that is what is in the SCR. Wiki has this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_oxide_sensor

Forgot to add: Ford does not use an in-tank DEF sampling sensor. What they do use is a known amount of pressure, shot by a known pulse width of an injector, into a known flow of exhaust in the SCR. The NOx sensor then reads the amount of reduction of NOx and either increases or decreases injection of DEF until NOx falls to a certain level. Water will not reduce NOx, so it knows that there is something wrong with the DEF when all other items are known. FYI: There is no oxygen sensor in a diesel. They always run 'lean' so an O2 sensor is useless.