YT90SC

There are about a million things it COULD be. Was it setting any network (U) codes?

Anyone with the appropriate programming device and access to motorcraft.com can reprogram PCM's. There are several other places that the calibrations can be had, but a forewarning, the dealer is the only place that will have the absolute latest. It takes several weeks to filter down to the aftermarket level, for independants and such.

It can start brand new if parts aren't tight. Mileage has jack to do with it. It is an inherent issue in ALL solid axle front ends. And as for dealerships, techs are paid flat rate. So they want to fix your problem, or they wont get paid. Show the service writer or tech the issue and he can fix it.

akirby and fordman, I am unsure that the O.P. knows how to properly fully utilize his Limited Slip/Traction Lock. Limited Slip or Traction Lock uses two clutch packs, one sandwiched between the side gear (attached to the axle) and diff housing. These packs are set to a minimum break away torque through use of a Bellville spring on each side or "S" spring between the side gears. This torque ranges between 25 lb-ft (bare minimum) and 100 lb-ft or so. It is that low so that you can turn corners without wheel hop or chatter. This system is ingenious because the more torque you successfully apply to the system, the more it will hold (yes even a diesel). If you are one wheel peel-ing, stop, apply the service brakes lightly or the park brakes lightly and then slowly add engine power. This will cause the torque across the diff to increase. This torque load causes more outward load on the side gears which makes the clutches apply harder. You can channel CRAZY amounts of torque through them if you get the brakes and throttle right. Lose that torque across the system by mashing the throttle or not enough brake and you are back to that minimum break away torque. Practice this and you can get both wheels to grab just as well as an expensive locker. Just takes a little practice.

It is not efficient.. In your opinion. To many its exactly what the main screen needs to have on it, a quick glance of what is happening and easy access to the other sub menus. As akirby said, if you use a particular submenu, you can leave it on that one and almost every function can be controlled via voice or the driver's buttons. The driver doesn't even need to use the infotainment screen at all, except for the visual clues of what the system is doing. The infotainment screen is for the use of passengers as your hands should be on the wheel... where all the secondary buttons are. I again suggest you check your software release for the two actual bugs you have experienced and fix your Ipod as suggested by other users to help improve your overall experience. Otherwise it sounds like you just simply wanted a Nissan. I can't blame you. Changing from one interface to another is hard. I would never own an Apple product because I cannot stand their interface (or politics but that is a different matter) due to operating Windows PC's since the early 90's. Therefore I will probably never be happy with another type of system, much like most of your complaints are that it doesn't work exactly like your Nissan.

Sorry. Brain fart. New site is : www.ford.com/syncmyride

1. The home screen is only there to take you to the other screens and show at a glance what the 4 sub "window" systems are doing, since this is in fact Windows based. You have a compass in the upper right quadrant because that's the default where Nav is. If you had Nav, you would access through that quad. 2. You shouldn't have to "click" anything. You should be able to search or play via voice for an artist, album etc. See the suggestion about "search" for "sync my ITunes". Ipods have to be updated and formatted for this to work. Apple vs Windows they have to be taught to play well together, especially when we put info on our Ipods in random ways. 3 and 5.... Are you SURE that you are using 3.6.1? From the home screen, hit Menu->Help->System Information. Look at the last 5 digits of the CCPU/CIP#.. they should be 13171 or higher. If they are not, you don't have the latest level. Sounds like some of the actual bugs you are experiencing are older version bugs. However, this is a computer (windows based, no less) and computers lock up sometimes. You can perform a "Master Reset" from the menus or simply pull the fuse (#32, 10 amps in the interior fuse panel) and hard boot. With some of the lockups, be sure that you don't have ANYTHING in your phone's phonebook that isn't a numeral or letter. "Emoticons" or any other symbol cause issues with processing, labeling and access. And I STRONGLY suggest you bounce issues off syncmyride.com. There are a lot of users there with ideas to solve issues, and they are monitored by Ford in an effort to keep updating and improving the system.

I've seen one other. It sheared the pump gear clean off when the bearing failed. Since the pump is enclosed behind the timing cover, that's where his coolant went. Its just not terribly common even for the 3.5's that have this setup. When it was revised, the pump got moved and a different style idler is used.

Not a headgasket. Your water pump failed. On some 3.5's the pump was an idler for the main timing chain. Its most likely a boat anchor with the cam correlation code as you probably bent the valves when the pump went. This is not a common failure, but it can happen. Bank 1 is the rear bank, FYI. Dropping it out on the subframe is the only way to get it. It doesn't take all that long, but plan on 4 wheel aligning it when you are done. DO NOT replace the trans too, unless you have access to an IDS so you can program the trans data into the PCM. This is critical as the solenoid body in the trans is flow tested and has its own unique calibration.

In a word, No. Too much intigration to other systems. HVAC, IPC functions etc. Not to mention that you would have to have the lower level dash to go with it. What level software are you running?

Check everything for looseness. 90% of the time, if a new steering stabilizer shock doesn't do it, the ball joint on the end of the track bar is loose. Though looseness in the steering box, tie rod ends, knuckle ball joints or trailing arm bushings can all set it up. Caster and camber need to be set right as well.

Hybrids are especially prone to MPG loss due to variance in temperature. Cold batteries are inefficient, as akirby said, the ICE runs more for heat as well. Not only does the Atkinson cycle dislike cruddy fuel, the lower BTU of winter fuels hurts not only power but lower BTU=lower overall engine heat. IF you can, don't burn ethanol either as it further acerbates these issues.

The F-150 kit is totally different from the Fusion. All add on fob RMST kits from Ford are reboxed from Audiovox. True "factory" kit where the RMST is in the keyhead (like F-150) is a simple install, the Fusion kit is not. Most dealers lose money in the long run on Audiovox units as they are on the hook when they malfunction, so it is easier to farm it out and let the aftermarket take the hit when they break. Most techs are the same way. Don't want to lose money on the install, don't want to be on the hook when they break. Personally, I don't want to be on the hook when the customer is P.O.ed that the Ford kits are MyKey tolerant and the customer gets mad at me because they are.

When did Dodge quit using a solid front axle in their HD trucks?

It's not that easy. First the linkage has nothing to bolt to. The cam in the t-case isnt drilled to accept the lever from the MSOS setup. The linkage is also setup differently than the encoder shift motor. The PCM MUST have 4x4 status available. No encoder shift motor, no status. Transmission shift scheduling in 4x4 low could possibly lead to driveline damage without the input. Fault messages in the cluster would drive you batty too. If you want to flat tow, there are kits available to do so with the ESOF intact.

You don't want the current manual transfer case anyway. They are MSOS (manual shift on STOP)- no longer shift on the fly. Shift your automatic through the ranges once a month - through low and back - and you will rarely have an issue with the motor. Hublock overrides allow you to get the hubs locked even if the PVH feature fails. Usually if the PVH fails you need something else fixed anyway like wheel bearings or ball joints taking out the vacuum seals.

Freestar final production was in November of 06. 7 calendar years or 8 model years ago. Richard NAILED it.

You can replace virtually everything inside a 6F35 for less than $3900. Where is it leaking? What are they telling you has failed? Since it is an 09, does it have the latest dipstick assembly/software and valvebody?

We have not sold a single 2012 that has not needed at least software updates. That is 100% failure rate even before you start talking mechanical/electrical issues. Its been fun seeing used low mile units coming from other make dealerships that we sold new too. Also great to have the lube tech come to you at least once a day to look at a leak coming from the bellhousing...

I can guarantee you that the failure rate is MUCH, MUCH higher than 5% on the early builds... I would imagine catastrophic failure rate is near that number, but the seal failure rate alone is higher than 5%. In reality, three redesigns of the seals later and they might finally be near 5% failure on the seals, maybe. There are still other factors that cause shudder besides the leaking seals. Software/control modules that are not up to the task, sticky actuators, failed actuator motors, then add in anything like the poor quality "European" style ground locations or other factors that reset KAM so the TCM has to relearn from square one. Add to that less common problems like harness issues, TCM failures, connector issues, early ABS issues on the hill start assist... The failure rate nears 100% especially with early units if you consider all shudder complaints from all sources. They have made great strides in software and the latest level seal seems to not be failing like the early cars that you could almost guarantee would fail. It still doesn't fix the basic underlying flaws of this system, nor will it ever bring the customers back that have already been turned off of not only F*ckus, but Ford in general. As The 6.0l diesel was the best Cummins and Duramax sales generator ever, this trans has returned thousands of sales to Korean and Japanese brands. I truly hope that the 6F35 will be in the next product cycle.

1 clutch assembly per car.

Back in November, there were over 17k DSP6 clutches on backorder. In the past I have had to wait 3 months, vehicle down, for them. Though that number went down as they released the "clean and spin" TSB. Which just further pisses off customers because you certainly CAN feel 250 rpm shudders. It may not be hurting sales yet, but it will... when people hear how terrible this unit is. That will not only hurt F**kus sales, but future higher end sales of ACTUAL cars that work. No one who owns one will buy a more expensive unit when they cannot buy an entry level one that works.

A wise man once said that a pig in a dress is still a pig. It won't matter what it looks like or how the interior is if they continue the DPS6 nightmare. With any luck they will pull their craniums out of their kiesters and use a functional transmission like 6F35, or one of the co-designed with GM boxes. For once I wish they aped Toyota and launched with a reliable 4 cog (like 4F27 or even the damn CD4E) instead of the PR nightmare that they waded into. They only make it worse under warranty by cleaning oil soaked clutches, and not authorizing replacement of any clutch that has under 250 RPM shudder as that is "within design tolerances".

Its SUPPPOSED to shut off with the door opening so that MyKey is unaffected.

Yes, that's exactly what I would do. Take it to the dealer and have the PCM updated. Then see what it does from there. Should be relatively cheap and again, no sense in fighting a software bug. Clean the Mass Airflow Sensor as well.