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Guest Message by DevFuse

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2012 Expedition Front Brakes stick

brakes calipers brake pads rotors

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9 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   WoodyB

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 04:04 PM

Hello I am looking for advice, I had a warped rotor on the front of my Expedition so my nephew swapped out the front pads and rotors and took it out on a short test drive and said it was good. Later I decided to take it out myself just to confirm he had done them correctly, immediately I notice my ABS light on and service Advancetrac   on the dash. So i go for a short drive and upon returning both front rotors are smoking hot so I put it back on the lift and both sides are locked up and won't spin freely. So after bruising his ego and figuring he had done something wrong I check and everything looks good. Pads are worn unevenly although. So I figure calipers are bad as relieving pressure through the bleeder does not free up the brakes. So put on all new rotors, pads and calipers and verify everything is on the right side and location. Also replaced  right side wheel sensor which was the cause of the ABS code, probably from the heat. Push on pedal and wheels remain locked up, bleed system  again and still locking up. Unless i am missing something it tells me the Calipers are bad again, Just does not make sense that 4 calipers from two different manufactures could all be bad? I have confirmed that the pads rotors and calipers are all the correct part numbers, any ideas would be appreciated.









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#2 OFFLINE   fordtech1

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 04:57 PM

If you open the bleeder screw and it does not free up and fluid doesn't spray out like pressure release, then you have a mechanically stuck caliper. Are the slide pins lubricated? Do they move free. They are the pins the small caliper bolts screw into. Also. There is an inside pad and a outside pad. If they are not in correct a pad will hang up.

#3 OFFLINE   fordtech1

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 04:57 PM

If you open the bleeder screw and it does not free up and fluid doesn't spray out like pressure release, then you have a mechanically stuck caliper. Are the slide pins lubricated? Do they move free. They are the pins the small caliper bolts screw into. Also. There is an inside pad and a outside pad. If they are not in correct a pad will hang up.

#4 OFFLINE   fordtech1

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 04:57 PM

If you open the bleeder screw and it does not free up and fluid doesn't spray out like pressure release, then you have a mechanically stuck caliper. Are the slide pins lubricated? Do they move free. They are the pins the small caliper bolts screw into. Also. There is an inside pad and a outside pad. If they are not in correct a pad will hang up.

#5 OFFLINE   fordtech1

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 04:58 PM

If you open the bleeder screw and it does not free up and fluid doesn't spray out like pressure release, then you have a mechanically stuck caliper. Are the slide pins lubricated? Do they move free. They are the pins the small caliper bolts screw into. Also. There is an inside pad and a outside pad. If they are not in correct a pad will hang up.

#6 OFFLINE   WoodyB

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 06:09 PM

Yes, everything checks out, and 

 

If you open the bleeder screw and it does not free up and fluid doesn't spray out like pressure release, then you have a mechanically stuck caliper. Are the slide pins lubricated? Do they move free. They are the pins the small caliper bolts screw into. Also. There is an inside pad and a outside pad. If they are not in correct a pad will hang up.

Yes pins are lubricated and move free, pads are all in proper position and just a trickle of fluid is released when the bleeder is opened. everything looks like its stuck calipers but just crazy to think that four calipers could be bad? just wanted to make sure I was not missing something. Guess I will try another new set in the morning.



#7 OFFLINE   fordtech1

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 06:32 PM

The pads have one pad that has a hump at the top and one that just has a normal curve at the top. Make sure the one with the hump is the inner pad.

#8 OFFLINE   WoodyB

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 07:52 PM

The pads have one pad that has a hump at the top and one that just has a normal curve at the top. Make sure the one with the hump is the inner pad.

Yep I have double checked that the calipers are on the correct sides and the pads are also placed correctly, I have manually pushed the calipers back several times just to work them a little also. I have NAPA now and think I will try a set of Ford Calipers in the morning!
Thanks for your response! I have done hundreds of brake jobs and never had this much trouble!

#9 OFFLINE   fordtech1

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 10:41 PM

Yep I have double checked that the calipers are on the correct sides and the pads are also placed correctly, I have manually pushed the calipers back several times just to work them a little also. I have NAPA now and think I will try a set of Ford Calipers in the morning!
Thanks for your response! I have done hundreds of brake jobs and never had this much trouble!


Good luck. Sticking calipers in the expedition aren't that common. Sometimes people twist the brake hose and of course the pads being in wrong and stuck slides. If it was hydraulic then several things come into play. But since it's mechanical, only other cause could be square cut seal rolled when the piston was pushed back in.
I see a lot of folks push the piston in unevenly which can cause issues. I'm sure another set of ford calipers will fix your issue.

#10 OFFLINE   theoldwizard

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Posted 19 October 2017 - 09:40 AM

On other Ford products, I have found that replacing the caliper AND caliper mounting bracket and slide pins is the only way to fix sticking brakes.  Frequently, these are sold together.

 

From Rock Auto - RAYBESTOS RC12170 Reman.; Enhanced Hybrid Technology; Includes: Caliper, Hardware, Pads, and Bracket - $75 after cores are returned


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