K&N FIPK 57-2595

[dj lpm]

I just installed a new K&N CAI on my 16 Expy EL. Its CARB certified for my People's Republic of California brethren.

 

The install took about 2 hrs and that was taking my time. A couple of install points:

1) Having a socket, extension and ratchet/nut driver for the hose clamps go a long way. Easier than a flat head to me.

2) On the diagram, the M and J hose clamps are labeled wrong. The M hose clamps (#64) go on the lower hump hose (K). The J hose clamps (#56) go on the Upper 3 ½” hose (N). I let K&N know; I don’t know if they’ll do anything.

3) The “bulb” trim piece will go on as one piece; the corners take a little playing with, but it does wrap around and seat properly. I started at the top right of the shield housing. Once it was installed, I trimmed off the excess with some shears.

4) The lower 9” trim pieces for the heat shield go on the sides of the shield, not the front and back (front being where the air filter connects). I measured out how much on each side by laying it on the heat shield frame itself, rather than cutting to 9 inches each (although it works out to about that). The super glue thing is a little messy. I just put very little on the heat shield edge and pressed on the trim pieces and then wiped up the excess.

5) I found that taking off the coolant return hose on the coolant reservoir made the placement of the completed heat shield box easier. Just make sure you plug the hose with a screwdriver or something so it doesn’t leak, and make sure you reinstall it afterwards.

6) The middle latch for the air box has to be removed. It has two prongs that hold it onto the latch bar; they are plastic and simply pry off. I used a small screwdriver to help.

7) Removing the air temp sensor from the stock filter housing is a little cumbersome. You need to lift the prong up slightly to get it over the catch, and then counterclockwise ½ turn. Once you have done that, you should be able to pull it out. I used an awl to lift the plastic prong and a pair of pliers to twist the sensor. BE DELICATE when you do it. Don’t forget to remove the blue o-ring before you install into the new grommet.

8) When you are ready to install tube assembly, I seated the bottom first, the air box tube second, and the passenger side tube third. Once seated, I tightened the passenger tube clamp first (seems to help keep the whole thing in the right positions). Make sure the hose clamps are seated correctly before tightening.

Results: I feel like I got a power pick up at lower speeds, but that could be wishful thinking (as pointed out on another forum, the 8 7 hp gain supposedly happens at 4K rpm). There’s a slightly sucking/gurgling sound when the turbos kick it at low rpm. I asked K&N about that, and they said that it is normal, and simply the result of not having a cover over the filter housing anymore (i.e. you would hear it if you took the cover off the stock unit as well). The overall sound is slightly deeper, but not by much. No significant increased cabin noise either at idle or WOT, other than the gurgling at lower speeds. I’ve attached a couple of vids with the pre- and post sounds.

Before:

You Tube

After:

You Tube

Cheers!

DJ LPM

[akirby]

You'll only get more power at WOT and only if the filter hasn't become clogged with too much dirt. The biggest difference is the sound.