Ssg-John L Dodson III Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 But how does it fit in the current opening? Is there a dash kit you can buy? If anyones done this feel free to calll me 740-644-0831. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moreno0101 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 But how does it fit in the current opening? Is there a dash kit you can buy? If anyones done this feel free to calll me 740-644-0831. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcrs24 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Looking for some input with using a LOC. I've got everything hooked up and buttoned back up. And at the point where I am fine tuning the sub but it sound horrible. My amp is a alpine pdx1.600 and my sub is a Si bmkIV. I was using a similar setup in my ford f150 with a aftermarket double din and I'm wondering if that is what made the difference (due to eq settings). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpinedaddy Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 WRCRS, where did you connect the LOC? Did you connect it to a full range speaker out or maybe a tweeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcrs24 Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 connected to the rear speakers behind the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpinedaddy Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Do you remember the color of the wires you tied in to? Guess I should also ask, what model Fusion/Stereo do you have? Does yours have the 6x8's in the rear deck? Or just the four door speakers? The PDX series you have is the best out there. Little biased as I worked for Alpine though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcrs24 Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Found the issue after a little trouble shooting LOC was bad so i replaced it. Do you remember the color of the wires you tied in to? Guess I should also ask, what model Fusion/Stereo do you have? Does yours have the 6x8's in the rear deck? Or just the four door speakers? The PDX series you have is the best out there. Little biased as I worked for Alpine though. Big fan of the pdx amps going to run a pdxv9 in the future just had the mono sitting around and wanted to test it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KelvinKDX Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Oh man, so I got the audio control LC7i installed with Polk Audio DB6501 in the front and back doors, and an 8" kicker solo baric in the trunk. i think the components are drowning out the little 8" sub, but it still sounds 1000X better than the stock set up. have RMS matched 450 RMS amp for the Sub another amp that gives 95x4 for my mids which are rated at 100x4. It really sounds sharp. you cant tell where the sound comes from, its just overwhelms you. Thanks for all your help guys, Next step is to install some sound dampening material, it didnt arrive in time to the install, but I knock it out on my day off. surprisingly there isnt much rattle coming from the doors or trunk. Moreno0101 - what made you decide on using the Polk Audio DB6501 speakers? How much clearance did this speaker provide? and depth issues? Also - Did the tweeter mounting require much surgery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moreno0101 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Moreno0101 - what made you decide on using the Polk Audio DB6501 speakers? How much clearance did this speaker provide? and depth issues? Also - Did the tweeter mounting require much surgery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moreno0101 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Kelvin kdx, polk db6501 had the right rms I was looking for, I had to use the supplied spacers but it installed with.no problem. The tweeters fit in the tweeter hole behind that grille and snapped into place. Sounds sweet.... I put a pair in the front and back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moreno0101 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Kelvin kdx, polk db6501 had the right rms I was looking for, I had to use the supplied spacers but it installed with.no problem. The tweeters fit in the tweeter hole behind that grille and snapped into place. Sounds sweet.... I put a pair in the front and back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknorth11 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I'm about to install an LOC for my amp to use in conjuction with the factory mft HU. I see that people have suggested tapping into to the rear speaker output behind the HU. My question is can I tap into those same wires farther back (ie. the rear door)? I am hoping to avoid removing the HU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_a Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 This thread was a good resource for me, so wanted to share my experience with you guys. I have a '13 Fusion Hybrid with MFT and 4 speakers in the doors only. I'm starting to get some hearing loss, so didn't want anything loud, just clear and discrete at lower volumes. The car is so quiet I figured a nice audio upgrade would make my long commute better. No time to do it myself so went with a local shop with good referrals. The plan was to use a Clean Sweep per Anthony's post, but the installer talked me out of it saying the MFT put out a pretty clean signal and I would be pleased with it when they were done They used an Audio Control LDQ4 and tapped into the F/R speakers off the amp in the truck, it was kinda cool with a bass level knob up front that I could adjust. Focal 165v30 in the front doors w/ lots of Hushmat Focal AC165 coax in the back doors JL XD7005v2 Amp (a great little amp) Custom box with 2 JL 10W0V34 subs in trunk It sounded okay at first, but the more I attempted to tune it, the worse it got. Muddy, loud, and made my ears hurt at any volume. Don't know how to describe it other than "toney or harsh." I had to download a EQ for my iPhone and cut out all the mids just to make it tolerable. It's a horrible combination and I'm not at all happy with the stereo shop, but at least they got the primary stuff done (speakers mounted, sound dampening, sub enclose, etc.). In my experience a DSP is a mandatory component to upgrading our stereos. I ended up installing a JBL MS-8 DSP and now it's really coming around. The MS-8 is expensive, but the separation and staging are incredible. The tuning options are infinite, it's easy to configure, and it's so clear I can crank it up without it really ever sounding loud. I'm still working on knocking the front tweeters down some, the V30's have a -3db switch for the tweeters on the crossovers, but it's not enough, they are still overpowering everything. Seems to me that because they're up so high in the Fusion, it kind of puts them in your face ... or they could just be the wrong speakers for this application ... not sure. I have 2 options. Still have a couple of channels left on the MS-8 and can run wires from the tweeters all the way back to the trunk and cross them over on the DSP and tune them down, or just replace the V30 with mellower speaker. Not sure what I'm going to do yet, and it sounds pretty good for now, so that'll be the next phase anyhow. Oh, and I unplugged just the rear mic for the ANC, the car's a bit louder. Haven't tried plugging it back to see if it creates any problems yet. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanson Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Hi Rob, I just signed up to answer your post here, maybe I can help. My background is in doing audio installs and I am versed in the MS-8. Can you share how you wired the Focal component set up front, and can you provide a picture of the tweeter's location? With the MS-8, you would ideally want to consider running an individual channel per woofer and per tweeter, if you haven't already, forgoing the passive crossover that comes with the component set. You may have already done this, but if you haven't definitely do so. You must use the MS-8 as the direct connection to either your amps, or the speakers directly. What I mean here is you want to take the outputs of the stock gear and input it to the MS-8, leaving no other parts of the system connected outside of the MS-8's control. Then the MS-8 outputs 8 channels to your speakers/sub whatever. Regarding tweeters being overpowering, let's not forget these are Focal units, known for being a little bright/harsh. You would want to control this exclusively through the MS-8's very powerful EQ with 31 bands of control. You can create a curve that tames the tweeters. Let me know how I can help if I can. I'll be working on my avatar, sig and all that in the meantime. This thread was a good resource for me, so wanted to share my experience with you guys. I have a '13 Fusion Hybrid with MFT and 4 speakers in the doors only. I'm starting to get some hearing loss, so didn't want anything loud, just clear and discrete at lower volumes. The car is so quiet I figured a nice audio upgrade would make my long commute better. No time to do it myself so went with a local shop with good referrals. The plan was to use a Clean Sweep per Anthony's post, but the installer talked me out of it saying the MFT put out a pretty clean signal and I would be pleased with it when they were done They used an Audio Control LDQ4 and tapped into the F/R speakers off the amp in the truck, it was kinda cool with a bass level knob up front that I could adjust. Focal 165v30 in the front doors w/ lots of Hushmat Focal AC165 coax in the back doors JL XD7005v2 Amp (a great little amp) Custom box with 2 JL 10W0V34 subs in trunk It sounded okay at first, but the more I attempted to tune it, the worse it got. Muddy, loud, and made my ears hurt at any volume. Don't know how to describe it other than "toney or harsh." I had to download a EQ for my iPhone and cut out all the mids just to make it tolerable. It's a horrible combination and I'm not at all happy with the stereo shop, but at least they got the primary stuff done (speakers mounted, sound dampening, sub enclose, etc.). In my experience a DSP is a mandatory component to upgrading our stereos. I ended up installing a JBL MS-8 DSP and now it's really coming around. The MS-8 is expensive, but the separation and staging are incredible. The tuning options are infinite, it's easy to configure, and it's so clear I can crank it up without it really ever sounding loud. I'm still working on knocking the front tweeters down some, the V30's have a -3db switch for the tweeters on the crossovers, but it's not enough, they are still overpowering everything. Seems to me that because they're up so high in the Fusion, it kind of puts them in your face ... or they could just be the wrong speakers for this application ... not sure. I have 2 options. Still have a couple of channels left on the MS-8 and can run wires from the tweeters all the way back to the trunk and cross them over on the DSP and tune them down, or just replace the V30 with mellower speaker. Not sure what I'm going to do yet, and it sounds pretty good for now, so that'll be the next phase anyhow. Oh, and I unplugged just the rear mic for the ANC, the car's a bit louder. Haven't tried plugging it back to see if it creates any problems yet. Rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyro_kahn Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Hi Anthony and Lanson, Hope you're well. Anthony, I'm building a nearly identical setup to yours and wondering what you did with the center channel speaker in the front dash? I'll have: Polk 6.5" db6501 for front doors, mids only for rear doors Alpine F6 amp to power front and rear doors JL Audio 10w6v3 10" sub Alpine M6 mono to power sub JL Cleansweep JL SSI How do you recommend I wire the inputs and outputs to the SSI? And should I wire directly to the speakers, or to the crossovers? Thanks guys. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanson Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 IMO I feel the Cleansweep is a total waste. Yes, it sums. But that's it. It outputs a 2ch signal, no eq, no time alignment, no control. MS-8 wins hands down. If you have a surround system (ie. center channel and rears), MS-8 is really the only player in the game to concern yourself with, IMHO. The Logic7 car-specific steering algorithm changes everything. If you don't have a center or don't want to use it, then other options present themselves. IMO, if you already bought the Cleansweep stuff, sell it and get an MS-8. If you were going to buy the Cleansweep, don't and buy the MS-8. Regarding speakers, keep stock or use something simple in the rear, because it is rear fill and will purposely be playing only ambiant sound. Stock will keep your budget fixated on the important parts... the front. Deaden/seal up those doors a ton, get the best mids and tweeters you can and run them active off the MS-8 through the F6 amp (a fine amp for the purpose.) Let the MS-8 power the center. FYI there's always someone selling an MS-8 and going to something else or someone wanting to buy an MS-8 after trying something else, on the www.diymobileaudio.com forum. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jccarb90 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 I do not have the Active Noise Cancellation in my car so I do not have the Audio Signal Processor. You are right that to tie in back the if you do have it. The one thing to keep in mind to tie in after the processor not before. Amplified signals can fry the Audio Signal Processor. With that said, your Active Noise Cancellation will not really be working because the JL Audio Clean Sweep will eliminate that part of the signal before it makes it to the amps and speakers. Without having Active Noise Cancellation the best place to tie in is right behind the dash. Attached are files with step by step Dash, Front, and Rear Door removal. Also attached is a simple wiring diagram. I cant attach much more than that because it is 44 pages and would require a good deal of ford knowledge to read. The diagram is a great reference for which color wires go where. When you pull out the cd player (Front Audio Control Module) The cable that is plugged in on the drivers side is the one that contains all the speaker wires. If you splice for signal in and out about 3" down from the connector then you will have plenty of room to reconnect if you ever remove like I just did. Everything is back in like new now with no issues. All of my stuff is for sale if anyone has any interest feel free to let me know. Hope the diagrams help and let me know if I can be anymore help. I wouldn't have the Fusion much longer (trading in for Explorer Sport), but I will remain on here for assistance. Good Luck. Hello Anthony, I'm planning of using Audio Control LC7i. If i do, would I experience any kind of engine noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpk17 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 hey guys. new to this forum. i know this is kinda an old post but i just bought a 2015 ford fusion hybrid se and was looking to mod the stereo. i just bought a fosgate p300-10 sub amp combo and i have two sets of jbl component speakers in my last car that i want to take out and install to the factory navigation mft unit. i am only going to install one set of the components in the front of the fusion. i have the four speaker + tweeter system. i'm not that familiar to the wiring but have read a few posts about it. so.... my plan is to install the amp/sub unit in the trunk. run the power from the battery in the trunk and look for a good bolt for the ground back there. now the amp/sub has speaker level inputs. now i was wondering if the four speaker system has wires ran to the back somewhere i could splice into or do i have to splice into the back door speakers? now for the components....do i just cut the speaker wire going into the front door speaker, run it straight to the crossover(mount them in the door) and from the crossover to the door speaker and then use the existing wire to connect the new tweeter? not sure if this car is set to give the full frequency or if it separates the frequency levels before the door. sorry just wanna make sure i do it right the first time. any help would be appreciated and when i do the install i'll start a new post to help anyone else out that wants to improve the system(if it sounds good) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KelvinKDX Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Lanson & group, This has been a great thread in giving me insight for my audio upgrade. I have a 2014 Fusion SE (6 speaker) with which i am not thrilled with the factory sound. I am intending to use an AudioControl LCQ-1 off of the factory MFT unit with a Alpine PDX-v9 amplifier to power all speakers and sub. I have not thought of the MS-8 and really want to keep my costs reasonable while achieving high sound quality. Currently i am looking at the Alpine SPR-60C speakers up front as i've heard they are very good for the price ... not sure on sub yet - considering single Alpine SWR-12. Do you have any opinion on the LCQ-1 unit? A local installer suggested adding an Epicenter as well but i am not sure about that. I plan to do the install myself. Any input would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanson Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 I really don't like AudioControl's direction, considering they were the absolute leaders in the market and then just kept making the same stuff for years, not changing with the times. That said, all you are looking for here is just a standard processor. I'm thinking the PPI / Soundstream units which will do the trick nicely, for about $300. Laptop based. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay072 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Figured I would revive this thread rather than start another on the same subject...I am currently in the process of upgrading the audio in my 14' SE (non-sony). This thread was def. helpfull re: the grommet behind the battery to run the 4 AWG wiring into the cab etc..I am using a JBL MS-8 processor mainly for it's ability to integrate with OEM and allow me to run a fully active system, so with that in mind I wanted all new 4 conductor speaker wire into the front doors (pair for the tweeter, pair for the midbass) Well...what a PIA that proved to be!! so thought I'd share in case anyone is thinking of doing the same... It proved to be impossible to fish through the door molex connector (unless someone has some other magic solution) If I wanted new wiring...I had no other choice but to unbolt and remove the doors to gain open access to the molex passthrough. I then used a dremel tool with a metal sanding bit and made a :"notch" beside the opening, this allowed enough room to pull the speaker wire through. I was then able to make a small slice in the rubber boot and route the new speaker wire through the rubber "sleeve" and into the door. If you get into this...remember to file the metal smooth and free of burrs, use a little touch up paint on the raw metal to prevent any possible rusting issues and I then applied white silicone to both prevent wire chaffing as well as seal up any minor openings. It was a chore but it worked...and the wiring is not visible so now I can move onto the fun stuff!! I wish auto manufactures would engineer some small provisions to allow a way to make it easier to upgrade the audio... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookej14 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Does anyone know what color the remote wire is on the 2013 Ford Fusion? I have my sub and amp hooked up, we thought the remote wire was purple/red but amp stays on when car is turned off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookej14 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 On my 2013 fusion, if you lay down with head under petals, you can pull back the firewall quite a ways started up by the grommet, you will see a little black "plug" that pops off the run the power wire from the battery. We cut a hole into the rubber plug, ran the cable through it and put it back where it belonged, then put the firewall back. It was hard to find but once ou know its there it was a piece of cake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jnfocus Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Is there any way you guys can upload some pictures ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14fusionsetx Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Has anybody installed subs in a 14 fusion with the sync with the basic screen non mft and the four door speakers I'm trying to find the easiest and best way to install my subs mainly looking for speaker output Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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