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2013 Fusion Sub Install


ticholas

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@anthony thanks again for the info. I went to my local dealership service dept and they didnt want to give the the wireing diagram. Said I would mess things up, and he wouldn't recommend it. I couldn't believe it. Im going to have this professionally done, I just like to know what the hell im talking about when I speak with the installer. Thanks again.

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@anthony thanks again for the info. I went to my local dealership service dept and they didnt want to give the the wireing diagram. Said I would mess things up, and he wouldn't recommend it. I couldn't believe it. Im going to have this professionally done, I just like to know what the hell im talking about when I speak with the installer. Thanks again.

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Mine does not have Active Noise Cancellation, but I assume it would because you are picking up your signal to the JL Audio Clean Sweep where it outputs to the speakers. At that point the noise cancellation would have already been processed by the Front Audio Control Module. I work for a Ford Dealership, so we spent a good bit of time trying to make sure that this setup would work properly with any configuration. One of our techs plans to do a very similar setup with his SE Hybrid soon.

You may confuse the heck out of the Clean Sweep by giving it input that has added noise cancellation.

 

The Clean Sweep's DSP continually tries to flatten the output signal, and having noise added to the sound may be a concern.

 

I haven't tried it with a Clean Sweep, but you may want to compare results after setting up (Calibrating) the Clean Sweep while driving at your most common speed, and also while parked.

 

trifistus, the JL CleanSweep and most other DSP/LOC combos have the ability to sense speaker input and act as their own remote turn on wire. Most even provide a 12v remote turn on lead for your amps.

 

**On some cars, the power antenna wire is only triggered when the head unit is on radio. Not sure about the late model Fusions, but it's something to be concerned about.**

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@anthony thanks for the great info. The best info I have found online so far. Your awesome. Noe for a lame question... is the amp enable wire on your diagram the same as a remote wire?

The LC6i and thus likely the LC7i can provide it's own "amp enable wire". That way you don't have to worry about which ford one to use. The LC unit will detect high level speaker power and automatically provide power to it's remote lead which can turn on your amps.

 

@anthony im using a audio control Lc7i, it was a lot cheaper and hopefully does a good job of summing up the signal for the amps. The clean sweep was a bit too expensive. Hopefully it does the job. Well see.

 

The LC6i is a great piece, the LC7i is even better as it adds finer bass control. I am sure it will definitely do the job for you.

 

The CleanSweep is a very good unit as well, definitely a step up in sound quality, but you pay for it.

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@Botts I just read up on the manual for the LC7i, thanks for the heads up.

 

@Anthony I know this is a long shot, but do you have the instruction for removing the side panels and carpeting from the rear deck? Or I'm I just being too cautious? looks like a bunch of plastic clips holding the carpeting in, but I have to remove some of the side plastics to get at it. I'm installing an amp rack under the rear deck today, and I need to feed some bolts to attach some support beams for the shelf. any info would be great.

 

Have a good one guys. Thanks for the input. :worship::shift:

 

Rafael

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@Botts I just read up on the manual for the LC7i, thanks for the heads up.

 

@Anthony I know this is a long shot, but do you have the instruction for removing the side panels and carpeting from the rear deck? Or I'm I just being too cautious? looks like a bunch of plastic clips holding the carpeting in, but I have to remove some of the side plastics to get at it. I'm installing an amp rack under the rear deck today, and I need to feed some bolts to attach some support beams for the shelf. any info would be great.

 

Have a good one guys. Thanks for the input. :worship::shift:

 

Rafael

I'm putting an amp rack in a 2007 today, but I won't have a 2012 to look at until the weekend. Hopefully Anthony can weigh in.

 

Edit: Anthony did weigh in, in that case it's the same as the early Fusions.

Edited by Botts
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Oh man, so I got the audio control LC7i installed with Polk Audio DB6501 in the front and back doors, and an 8" kicker solo baric in the trunk. i think the components are drowning out the little 8" sub, but it still sounds 1000X better than the stock set up. have RMS matched 450 RMS amp for the Sub another amp that gives 95x4 for my mids which are rated at 100x4. It really sounds sharp. you cant tell where the sound comes from, its just overwhelms you. Thanks for all your help guys, Next step is to install some sound dampening material, it didnt arrive in time to the install, but I knock it out on my day off. surprisingly there isnt much rattle coming from the doors or trunk. :shift::worship::headspin::rockon::rockon::rockon::rockon::rockon::rockon::rockon::rockon::rockon:

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  • 2 weeks later...

@Anthony and anyone else here that might know.

 

I looked at the wire diagram and from what it looks like there is no factory Amp, i guess its built into the head unit. I see the amp enable line is not used. also, where did you find the ignition relay that you hooked your remote wire too? I had some hack install my gear and he jacked it all up. The amps turn on like you said they would :doh:when you open the door and there is white noise at really low volume,........and they used cheap speaker wire....I'm redoing the whole thing myself to save me more trouble and making sure its done right. thanks to all your info I think i will do a better job than those jerks at the shop.

 

Question: would you guys run new wire to the doors or use the factory speaker wires?

 

Thanks guys,

 

Rafael

 

:shift:

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You are right in that the amp is built into the front audio control module. As for the remote on. Look for a fuse in your inside fuse box that operates something only when the ignition is on. You can use that as a remote wire. I did not run all new speaker wire, just new wire from each crossover to the speakers inside each door. Make sure that your signal wires and power wires are on different sides of the car. You also need to make sure you have a good ground. Preferably make a new one so you don't get engine feedback from something they might have used.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Guys, I finally got my system to where I want it. The dash was a little tricky only because those clips at the top where stronger than I thought. I used a trim pry tool (a plastic crow bar). I really want to run new speaker wire to my doors, but getting through that little S shaped sleeve between the door seems like a pain.

 

@evilballa I used a different product (audiocontrol LC7i) it has an auto on function when it senses a signal from the stereo. I'm not sure about the clean sweep, but for the price of it...I'm sure it has a similar feature, you might not need to use the remote input.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Can you buy the Titanium faceplate and use it on the SE model? Trying to install a double din radio into the SE. I didn't know if simply ordering the faceplate would work, or has anyone found a way to modify the current configuration to allow a single or double din radio

@Ssg-John L Dodson III - if your trying to add touch screen navi to your SE, clarion still makes a single DIN motorized head unit.

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