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2013 Fusion Sub Install


ticholas

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Hey sorry if this is a repost,

I've tried getting answers on another Forum dedicated to Fusions and there's a pretty unhelpful crowd over there that don't like to reply to threads seemingly.

 

My question is if anyone that has a 2013 and has installed a Sub to the factory stereo, where they ran the power wire from the battery and how they got an Amp remote signal.

 

any help is greatly appreciated. I have all the other things figured out but I'm curious of those two.

Edited by ticholas
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Under the car? Doesn't seem wise to me unless you used some heavy duty wire shield. I would say down the center, under the carpet INSIDE the vehicle. Route in through the factory wire harness firewall pass through. For turn-on signal, you have to look at the factory schematic wire diagram and find the one(s) likely to have power when the radio's on. You'll need a audio signal, too.

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Under the car? Doesn't seem wise to me unless you used some heavy duty wire shield.

 

Have you ever looked under like an f150? to the wires that run to the tranny or the rear brake light ect.? There just regular 12ga or 10ga wire with wire loom around them? I work on electronics on Dozers, Draglines, Coal trucks, OB trucks, so my amp will fail long before the cable does, just make sure the cable does run on anything.

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Gonna be doing a LOC (line out converter) off the back deck speakers for the rca signals. I checked the driver side firewall and the one pass through i could see under the hood and dash was packed to the brim, so i was looking into the passenger side but its a little packed under the dash on that side. Also from what i saw there's a fuse panel on the pass. Side that i could probably tap for remote with a fused connection. Still trying to figure this out.

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Yep, I've not givin the issue too much thought. I have two sub boxes in the living room, one with dual 12's, one with dual 15's, and brand new amplifiers in the garage. Yes, it would be better, but I co-own this car with my girlfriend, and she don wanna woofer box in the trunk. But in reality, tune up channel 44, hip-hop nation, turn it up half way, and you have real low-bass, and you can still talk with your passenger. If this was all my car, I'd prob'ly put a box in it. There's certainly room behind the back seat. But I reserve the right to try to convince my girlfriend to put a box in.

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  • 3 months later...

So, I found this thread earlier when i could not find a path for a power line through the firewall... I swear I poke a coat hanger everywhere i could find a grommet or seal or wire path... I gave up... Went back at it about an hour later and tried poking at a grommet around a bundle of wires, and.... Looked in the engine compartment and there it was... Like a rainbow arching out from no where, with my wire on the end. So... The wire bundle was up about 3/4 to the top under the drivers side. You can see the hood line go in about half way up, then straight up, maybe a little to the outside, there is a bunch of wires leading into the insulation. Behind it you can feel the rubber seal around the wires. You can either: A. poke a sharp hanger through it to make a hole, or B. work around it but you may pop it out. In the engine compartment, I found it best to pull the battery out so that you can see what you are doing, but you may not need to. Behind the battery is the ESP unit with the hydraulic unit facing the battery. The brake lines will be coming off the top and bending away. Just behind the ESP is the back side to the wire bunch and is where you will find your pot of gold (ie. point where you will see the hanger wire). I was beyond ecstatic when I finally broke that barrier. I thought that I was gonna have to take it in to have the dealership run it. But I did not have to turn in my man card today...

 

Good luck all, I lost 6 hours of my life installing this... I hope anyone reading this will save some time!

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  • 1 month later...

Thank you mawolfe. I was running a 4 gauge power cable through the firewall for a 2013 Ford Fusion today, and your post was very helpful.

I ended up creating a hole through the grommet with a hanger, and sure enough I was able to see it behind the battery using a flashlight.

I did need to remove the battery (needed a 5/16 socket wrench), and with some tinkering, was able to push the wire through, although I really think I popped out the grommet a little bit and the cable came out from the side.

 

In any case, the audio install is under way.

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Also, wrcrs24, this may be too late, but I am planning to tap the power cable using one of two approaches:

- splice into SONY amplifier in the trunk (behind right panel in trunk - possibly the blue part of the 20 pin socket)

- use add-a-fuse in the fuse box - plug into the stereo fuse or an existing accessory fuse

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For my setup, I'm planning to do the following over multiple weekends (I will be posting a detailed write up with pictures). My focus is on trying my best to not splice into any wires and keep my warranty intact if possible. I am an amateur so this might seem you detailed to some.

 

Planned steps so far:

 

1) lookup exact part number and order pigtail wire harnesses for Sony amplifier through Ford dealer

2) figure out the amp wiring color combinations for Sony Amp in the trunk

3) Run 4 gauge power cable from battery to trunk

4) Tap blue harness at sony amp using pigtail to get sub signals (effectively disconnect rear 6x9s for now), convert using 2 channel LoC, plug in to (from previous car) 5 channel rockford fosgate amp, get remote signal through fuse box

5) Power up RF amp, connect Sub LOC signals to Amp SUB In, connect existing (from previous car) JL audio enclosed 12 inch sub. This should give me a mono sub setup for now.

6) Run punch level remote controller to the front dash and install it

7) Order 6.5 inch spacers for all doors (need to find out depth needed), and new speakers (focal components for front). I plan to use existing Polk DB6501 components for rear

8) Run new speaker cables from trunk to all 4 doors (possibly get professional help to run through grommets), install crossovers in the doors, install components in all 4 doors

9) use remaining 4 channels on amp with 4 channel LoC connected to gray pigtail coming from Sony amp (effectively disconnecting center channels), test with 8 component speakers

10) dynamat doors and trunk while I'm at it

11) add distro block, add another amp, replace 6x9s with something more powerful and run a copy of the signal coming from the blue harness pigtail.

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  • 5 months later...

I have added a sub woofer to my 2013 Fusion SE with MFT. It was a bit of a chore but got it done and love it. I wasn't happy with the stereo at all being a bit of an audiophile. I riped out everything factory and started over. Here is a list and basic instructions for the install.

 

Things used:

1 JL Audio Clean Sweep (CL441dsp) This gives you a completely flat EQ out to your amps

1 JL Audio Clean Sweep (CL-SSI) This takes all speaker signals and allows you to adjust their volume to match.

1 Rockford Fosgate T400-4 (This is for all the door speakers)

1 Rockford Fosgate T500-1bdCP (This is for the subwoofer)

1 Rockford Fosgate T1D210 ( 10" 2ohm subwoofer)

1 Box of your choosing (I went with a Sealed one for better sound quality)

2 Rockford Fosgate T2652-S ( These are 6.5" components since the Fusions all have a spot for a tweeter in all four doors.)

 

 

Installation:

1 Power wires are run down the driver side of the car inside to a power block underneath the rear deck. There is a grommet right behind the battery in the engine compartment that has enough room for a small hole and power wires. Had to remove the battery to get to it.

2 Signal wires to the JL Audio Clean Sweep are pigtailed into the harness right behind the touch screen.

3 Installed all amps and Clean Sweep to the underside of the rear deck lid to keep everything neat and clean looking

4 Opened up all the doors to put in new speaker and discovered that you have to cut the factory ones out. The mounting ring that spaces them away from the door has to be used so there is enough room to mount the new speakers. The tweeters fit into the slots in the back right behind the grate. The ones in the front have a factory one that has to be pried out first. Crossover was mounted directly to the door skin out of the way.

5 Ran new speaker wire to all four doors coming down the passenger side of the car.

6 The Clean Sweep has a gain control witch I mounted in the spot opposite of where the parking brake switch is. The status light is also mounted there. (This is optional. You can put these in the trunk instead or under the dash.

7 Ran wire for sub with a little to spare so I could easily move the box and disconnect for use of the whole trunk space.

8 Signal wires for the amps and Clean sweep are tied to the ignition circuit with an inline fuse.

9 The Clean Sweep comes with built in protection against back feed to MFT and also has a cd to calibrate the first time. Once you connect to the amps and calibrate you can adjust the amps to your liking

10 ENJOY!!!!!!

 

You defiantly don't have to use the stuff I did as far a speakers subs and amps but the Clean Sweep is a must to even out the EQ and protect against back feed to MFT. I like the quality I get out of this setup, and have placed best in show for how clean the install was with such great performance. defiantly not what people expect to hear.

Edited by Anthony Masotti
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  • 2 weeks later...

Mine does not have Active Noise Cancellation, but I assume it would because you are picking up your signal to the JL Audio Clean Sweep where it outputs to the speakers. At that point the noise cancellation would have already been processed by the Front Audio Control Module. I work for a Ford Dealership, so we spent a good bit of time trying to make sure that this setup would work properly with any configuration. One of our techs plans to do a very similar setup with his SE Hybrid soon.

Edited by Anthony Masotti
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  • 2 weeks later...

2 Signal wires to the JL Audio Clean Sweep are pigtailed into the harness right behind the touch screen.

How did you remove the dash coverings to get at the rear of the screen? I just got a 2014 with MFT and would assume it is very similar to the 2013. Ive been looking around for a way to remove the panels and I keep getting stuck looking at dead ends.

 

Also, Ive been loooking for a wiring diagram and have found a couple crappy ones, since you said you work for Ford.... would you happen to be able to allow it to 'fall off a truck' onto the forum? lol

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I've got the same setup in my car...

 

I figured (probably incorrectly) where to put the remote wire ...you dont actually need to get behind the touch screen...the speaker inputs and power/antenna/etc, are actually plugged into the CD unit.

 

I would definitely recommend going to the auto parts store and getting a trim removal kit...they are plastic levers in various configurations to remove all of the plastic trim from your console, doors, etc., and they will not damage your interior!

 

You have to remove the black trim 'ring' around the transmission selector first, then the silver piece closest to the cup holder, then the trim around the radio...then remove the two 7mm bolts that hold on the front of the touch panel/temp control, they are the only two you can access at this point. Once you get those out, remove the face starting at the bottom, and work your way around...the tabs are harder to remove by the vents, but they will come...dont pull too hard because there are two wire harnesses that you have to remove after you get the front face off. once you have this off the CD unit is accessible, and this is where the 'magic' happens.

 

And if you want to tap into your speakers, look on the right side of the trunk behind the upholstered panel..there should be a small silver unit...i do not know if this is a signal processor or just some small amplifier...with the battery being in the trunk on the left and access to all of the speackers on the right...installing an amp is MUCH easier than originally thought...

 

hope this helps!

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I do not have the Active Noise Cancellation in my car so I do not have the Audio Signal Processor. You are right that to tie in back the if you do have it. The one thing to keep in mind to tie in after the processor not before. Amplified signals can fry the Audio Signal Processor. With that said, your Active Noise Cancellation will not really be working because the JL Audio Clean Sweep will eliminate that part of the signal before it makes it to the amps and speakers. Without having Active Noise Cancellation the best place to tie in is right behind the dash. Attached are files with step by step Dash, Front, and Rear Door removal. Also attached is a simple wiring diagram. I cant attach much more than that because it is 44 pages and would require a good deal of ford knowledge to read. The diagram is a great reference for which color wires go where. When you pull out the cd player (Front Audio Control Module) The cable that is plugged in on the drivers side is the one that contains all the speaker wires. If you splice for signal in and out about 3" down from the connector then you will have plenty of room to reconnect if you ever remove like I just did. Everything is back in like new now with no issues. All of my stuff is for sale if anyone has any interest feel free to let me know. Hope the diagrams help and let me know if I can be anymore help. I wouldn't have the Fusion much longer (trading in for Explorer Sport), but I will remain on here for assistance. Good Luck.

Fusion Dash Removal.pdf

Fusion Dash Removal.pdf

Fusion Front Door Removal.pdf

Audio Cable Diagram.pdf

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I tied in behind the signal processor in the trunk ... i had to guess which harness to tie into, but i figured it was the one with "just" the speaker wires and a purple/white wire...the one with the blue and the yellow 20 ga. wires i figured was the input from the ANC and such.

 

however, now i get this feedback from the system, and when i open the door, i get this sound that sounds like a DJ scratching a record (think rap type scratching - not bouncing a needle across the record)..and this tic and hiss that doesn't go away, but is eventually shadowed by the music...the question now is, do i need to drop the 250+ on a jbl clean sweep or some other signal summing device to negate that extra noise?

 

I tied my amp remote wire in up front to the "power antenna" wire, after the one that i thought was the "factory amp turn on" wire (purple/red i think)...I would much rather tie it in at the audio processor. is that possible?

 

@Anthony, if you have some more complex schematics at your disposal that you could share, that would be awesome. also, if you are looking to sell the clean sweep, etc. I might be interested in that as well.

 

Thanks!!

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The Clean sweep is specifically designed to eliminate unwanted noise and give you a pure flat signal to the amps to then go to the speakers. If you tell me what areas you need diagrams of I can get them for you. Like I said there are 44 pages so I do not want to post all of them because it takes a little time to convert to be able to post. Now after looking over the diagrams again. You can bypass the active noise cancellation all together by splicing in behind the cd player instead. This will make the scratching noise stop. It will not give you the clearest signal but it will work with the amps. The Clean Sweep and signal summing unit go together even though they are sold separately. The two together are $400 and some change. I picked them because they had the best reviews specs. I will sell mine since I have no need for it. I can also sell all of the speaker wires and connectors needed to run everything. I had everything mounted to the underside of my rear deck so that when you opened the trunk you never saw it. It also allowed me to simply disconnect my sub and pull it out leaving only the signal wires for it if I needed my whole trunk. I had everything in there for 5 months and just recently decided I wanted the Explorer so I have already pulled everything out and packed it up. Let me know what you would want to pay for the Clean Sweep and I'll see if I can do it or not.

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  • 2 weeks later...

How did you have your SSI hooked up? In the Fusion I have the MFT, but only a woofer and tweeter in each door, and the instructions for the SSI say that a sub input is necessary, Did you just splice the rears and run the split signal to both sub and rear? ...or have some other factory speaker setup?

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The three inputs to the SSI are from 1. Front Tweeters 2. Front Mids 3. Rear Mids. On the RCA output from the Clean Sweep I put a RCA splitter. One to the amp for the sub and one for the amp for everything else. The Clean Sweep puts out a very "hot" signal so there is plenty of signal to split.

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