Jump to content

Custom Search





Photo
- - - - -

Changing head gaskets in a 5.4L 99 Expedition - Anyone have a PDF manual or tips?


  • Please log in to reply
15 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   guitar333

guitar333

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Joined 07-December 07

Posted 07 December 2007 - 03:18 PM

Hi!

Has anyone on here changed the head-gaskets on a 2v 5.4L Triton before? This weekend we are putting new head-gaskets in a 99 Expedition with the 5.4L. (The car has been way down on power lately and although its not leaking oil, it was determined by the dealer as needing new headgaskets as it has been losing power since it overheated one day - but still drives fine and doesnt smoke aside from the power-loss)

Does anyone have a PDF of the service manual or procedure they'd be willing to share? I'd be ever so grateful. I had one but I can't find it.

I know Ford instructs you to pull the motor so you don't increase the chances of messing up the gaskets or mating-surface.....but we are going to do this with the motor in the truck. Anyone done this before? Also, do we need to find any special tools like the cam alignment tool?

Can anyone share any tips or documentation on removing the heads/changing the headgaskets? It would mean so much!

Thanks in advance!







Lose this advertisement by becoming a member. Click here to create a free account.

#2 OFFLINE   JW

JW

    Ranger Rebuilder

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 400 posts
  • Joined 24-April 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:1994 Ranger/2003 Explorer
  • Location:Valencia, CA

Posted 07 December 2007 - 03:57 PM

I just did a double head gasket replacement on my '98 Expy 5.4. It's a pain in the ass, but totally doable. I did mine with the engine in the truck. If you have decent mechanical abilities, a couple of extra sets of hands, and a lot of time and patience, you'll be fine. I have a Ford shop CD, but didn't refer to it all that much. A Chilton or Haynes manual would be plenty.

Things to keep in mind:

- Pull the hood off. I didn't on mine, and kept wishing I did.
- The power steering pump has to come off to get the front cover off. There are three 10mm bolts that are all hidden from view, but you can feel around for them and get them out from under the truck.
- Pull the inner fender liners to get to the exhaust manifolds.
- Spray the exhaust manifold bolts with PB Blaster. You may find that some of the studs break anyway, they're pretty weak. If they do, get them out while the heads are off.
- The bracket that supports the power steering reservoir is tough to get off. You can do without it after it's gone, though.
- The bolts that hold the coil-on-plug units are 7mm. You'll need a variety of 1/4" drive extensions, as well as a swivel joint. I also added a 7mm swivel-joint socket to my arsenal for the job.
- Don't bother disconnecting the fuel lines from the rails. Just pull the rails off the intake and leave them in the truck, bungee-corded out of the way.
- You can get the upper and lower intake off as an assembly, with the hood off (I had to separate mine).
- There are a couple of bolts on the rear of the passenger side head - one that holds a bracket for a wiring harness, another that holds a bracket for a heater tube that comes off the water pump. They're tough to get a wrench on. You can also do without them when you reassemble.
- You'll need a large puller to get the crank pulley off, as well as a big breaker bar to break the crank bolt loose. I got my puller at Autozone for about $35.
- If you haven't done so already, change your plugs. It's MUCH easier to do with the intake off the truck.
- The passenger side head is harder to get off/put on, mainly because of the heater hoses and the power distribution block. You can use bungee cords to pull the hoses up and to the right.
- Change your passenger side O2 sensor while that head is off. You can get to it from above that way and don't have to fight with anything.
- Be careful with the large vacuum hose that connects to the rear of the upper intake. It will probably be coming apart.
- Camshaft alignment is no doubt easier with the tools, but it can be done without them. Here's how it has to work: Put the crank at #1 TDC (which puts the keyway on the crank at about a 10:30 position. Then, the driver's side head will have a dot on the cam sprocket that will sit at about a 12:30 position. The passenger side's sprocket will need to be at about 11:30. Then, on the chains, you'll see one link that's a different color than the rest, and at the opposite end, two links that are a different color (if you don't see them, flip the chains around as the different links are only on one side). Once you find them, color them with a Sharpie so they'll be easier to see. The single links line up with the dot on the crank sprocket (which is now at a 6:00 position), and then the double links will hit the cam sprocket dots. Here's where it gets tricky - the cam sprockets will not magically stay in the positions you want them to, because of pressure from the valve springs (the cam holding tools take care of that, if you have them). But, you can slightly rotate the cam sprockets into place as needed to get the chains on. You may need to hold pressure on them while installing the tensioner assemblies, otherwise the chains will jump teeth and the timing will be off. You'll understand all that a little better when you get to disassembly and can see what I'm talking about.
- Get two new sets of head bolts (about $35 a set or so, ten on each side). The torque sequence is like so - start on the top center and tighten to 25 ft lbs, then bottom center, then go to the top one in front of center, then the bottom, then the top to the rear of center, and so on, working your way out. Tighten them all to 25 ft lbs. Then, repeat the sequence, turning each of the 1/4 turn. Then, do that again. It ends up being about 75 ft lbs when you're done. You'll hear a "SNAP!" sound as you tighten them. No biggie. It's especially difficult on the passenger side. You'll probably find yourself doing them 1/8 of a turn at a time because of space limitations. Put an index mark on each bolt head for reference and it'll be easier.
- Get a complete gasket set. There will be a few you won't need, but it's cheaper than getting the head gaskets, and valve cover gaskets, and intake gaskets, and front cover gaskets separately.
- You'll need a bit of black RTV for the front cover and valve covers, where they and the oil pan all come together (again, when you get it apart, you'll see what I mean). Just little dabs, nothing more.
- You don't have to pull the water pump to get the front cover off.
- Getting the water pump pulley and the crank pulley loose will require a bit of ingenuity. I used a ratchet strap on both to keep them from turning while I loosened/tightened them.
- All the manuals say you need the special tool to get the fan off. Nope, just a big adjustable wrench. The radiator doesn't HAVE to come out, but I lost a lot of tools between it and the A/C condenser, and if I did the job again, I'd pull it.
- Don't be surprised if your intake gaskets are different on each side. Ideally they should be the same. Mine were different (one head was probably replaced at some point), and I had to buy three sets before I got it right.

I have some pictures at the link below, at various stages.

http://fordtruckworl...amp;album=57011
Try this place for parts - http://www.northernautoparts.com - they got me things fast when Autozone failed miserably.

I'll probably make changes to this post as I think of more stuff. And feel free to ask questions, as it's all still pretty fresh in my mind.

Edited by JW, 07 December 2007 - 04:05 PM.

JW
Putting BON Negatards on Ignore since 2007

VirtualFord.org Ranger Power Sports Explorer Forum


1994 Ranger SuperCab STX 4x2 4.0L 2003 Explorer Limited 4x4 4.6L 2004 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L

#3 OFFLINE   guitar333

guitar333

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Joined 07-December 07

Posted 07 December 2007 - 04:45 PM

Dude, JW YOU ROCK! Thanks for taking the time to type that up, that was exactly what I was hoping for. Feel free to add more info.

Will be doing this tonight through this weekend, have an extra set of hands and plenty of beer.

#4 OFFLINE   JW

JW

    Ranger Rebuilder

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 400 posts
  • Joined 24-April 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:1994 Ranger/2003 Explorer
  • Location:Valencia, CA

Posted 07 December 2007 - 05:20 PM

No sweat!

One more tip - there are spring-loaded plungers that hold the timing chain tensioners in place. It's a metal plunger with a small ratchet assembly next to it, all in a cast iron body. You need to compress the plunger into the body of the unit with a vise, and then place a pushpin/paperclip/some other small diameter object into a hole on the body to hold the plunger in (again, it'll make sense when you see it). Then you can install the plunger along side the tensioner assembly, and pull the pin when it's all together. There are probably web sites with pictures all over the place. And the episode of Horsepower TV that was on last Saturday even shows how to do it on a 4.6L.

Edited by JW, 10 December 2007 - 06:25 PM.

JW
Putting BON Negatards on Ignore since 2007

VirtualFord.org Ranger Power Sports Explorer Forum


1994 Ranger SuperCab STX 4x2 4.0L 2003 Explorer Limited 4x4 4.6L 2004 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L

#5 OFFLINE   guitar333

guitar333

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Joined 07-December 07

Posted 08 December 2007 - 05:08 PM

nevermnd

Edited by guitar333, 08 December 2007 - 07:00 PM.


#6 OFFLINE   JW

JW

    Ranger Rebuilder

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 400 posts
  • Joined 24-April 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:1994 Ranger/2003 Explorer
  • Location:Valencia, CA

Posted 10 December 2007 - 06:25 PM

So how's it going? How many times have you cursed Ford's powertrain engineers?
JW
Putting BON Negatards on Ignore since 2007

VirtualFord.org Ranger Power Sports Explorer Forum


1994 Ranger SuperCab STX 4x2 4.0L 2003 Explorer Limited 4x4 4.6L 2004 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L

#7 OFFLINE   wagoneer

wagoneer

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Joined 05-January 08

Posted 05 January 2008 - 01:38 PM

JW, thank you so much for your informative post! I have a '98 Expedition that requires a new head gasket, but I have been reluctant to dive into this repair. Your post along with the provided pictures are a tremendous help, and I now hope to begin working on it soon. I joined this forum so I could ask some questions about the repair. My truck has a lot of miles(140K) and a lot of things wrong with it, so I want to do this repair as cheaply as possible to try and get another 10 or 20K out of the engine(it should still have some life in it). Below are my first questions:

1)When I called to buy parts they told me that they sold the head gasket for $15 or the valve gasket set for $200 with the head gasket and that this would be necessary for the repair. Is this true? I remember replacing the head gasket on my brother's oldsmobile years ago and we only needed the head gasket itself. Couldn't I do this repair with only the head gasket?

2)My brother's car required the aluminum head cover to be planed at a metal shop for a good seal. At that time, it cost us only $15 in our hometown. Will the head cover(s) on my Expedition need to be ground flat, will it cost much and how will I know if this is necessary?

3)You mentioned replacing the O2 sensor in your writeup since it's easy to get to, but I was wondering if this is really necessary since I'm trying to do this cheaply? I have an AutoTap diagnostic program on my laptop that I hook into my vehicle, and it shows that all O2 sensors are working great.


I'm sure I'll have more questions for the people here throughout this process, and I'm very glad that I found these forums! :D

#8 OFFLINE   JW

JW

    Ranger Rebuilder

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 400 posts
  • Joined 24-April 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:1994 Ranger/2003 Explorer
  • Location:Valencia, CA

Posted 05 January 2008 - 05:04 PM

You're welcome! Assuming you don't have major mechanical problems brewing (bad bearings, rings, valves, etc.) another 10-20K should be easy. Right after I finished mine I took it on a 4000+ mile road trip.

1) $15 seems cheap for one head gasket, while $200 for the entire set is really high. Autozone has it for $144. And you will need virtually all of them in the set.
http://www.autozone....oductDetail.htm

2) The valve covers are plastic, so no milling needed. Just be careful to not overtorque (and crack) them.

3) If you have evidence that your O2 sensors are good, by all means leave them (at $60+ each). Mine was shot.

How do you like the AutoTap software? And do they have a module to perform programming to the PCM?
JW
Putting BON Negatards on Ignore since 2007

VirtualFord.org Ranger Power Sports Explorer Forum


1994 Ranger SuperCab STX 4x2 4.0L 2003 Explorer Limited 4x4 4.6L 2004 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L

#9 OFFLINE   micomateh

micomateh

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Joined 24-May 10

Posted 24 May 2010 - 07:43 PM

I apologize in adavance for dredging up an old thread, but am undertaking this project on a '99 Expedition this weekend. JW's post was extremely helpful and I feel much more prepared - definitely pre-ordered a few parts I probably wouldn't have.

I was wondering if anyone else has done this project and if there is any other insight, special tools, other parts to pre-order, etc. Anyone who has pictures would get huge Kudos from me as well!

Thanks in advance and hello Blue Oval members...

#10 OFFLINE   JW

JW

    Ranger Rebuilder

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 400 posts
  • Joined 24-April 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:1994 Ranger/2003 Explorer
  • Location:Valencia, CA

Posted 24 May 2010 - 08:02 PM

Welcome to the site! I likely have these pictures around somewhere, and will get them back online in the next day or so.
JW
Putting BON Negatards on Ignore since 2007

VirtualFord.org Ranger Power Sports Explorer Forum


1994 Ranger SuperCab STX 4x2 4.0L 2003 Explorer Limited 4x4 4.6L 2004 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L

#11 OFFLINE   jruiz

jruiz

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 2 posts
  • Joined 08-September 10

Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:46 PM

Welcome to the site! I likely have these pictures around somewhere, and will get them back online in the next day or so.



Hello JW, thanks for the posting of the info for the expedition. I wanted to ask if by any luck would have the photos that you were attack to the link above. I am now needing to replace my blown head. this is the second one for this vechicle. My truck has 220k miles.


Thanks for any extra help, tips etc...


jruiz

#12 OFFLINE   JW

JW

    Ranger Rebuilder

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 400 posts
  • Joined 24-April 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:1994 Ranger/2003 Explorer
  • Location:Valencia, CA

Posted 09 September 2010 - 02:36 AM

They're still online at http://www.angieandj...yheadgasket.zip . Feel free to ask questions. I don't have the truck anymore, but some things you just don't forget...

I have some others as well; let me know if you need something specific.

(Link fixed)

Edited by JW, 09 September 2010 - 04:53 PM.

JW
Putting BON Negatards on Ignore since 2007

VirtualFord.org Ranger Power Sports Explorer Forum


1994 Ranger SuperCab STX 4x2 4.0L 2003 Explorer Limited 4x4 4.6L 2004 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L

#13 OFFLINE   jruiz

jruiz

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 2 posts
  • Joined 08-September 10

Posted 10 September 2010 - 05:31 PM

They're still online at http://www.angieandj...yheadgasket.zip . Feel free to ask questions. I don't have the truck anymore, but some things you just don't forget...

I have some others as well; let me know if you need something specific.

(Link fixed)

Thank you so much. I will be starting this project on Monday wish me luck :) if i need anything else I will ask.

Once again thank you.


jruiz

Edited by jruiz, 10 September 2010 - 05:32 PM.


#14 OFFLINE   ExpyDude

ExpyDude

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Joined 25-February 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:99 Expedition 5.4L, 98 F-150 4.6L
  • Location:Georgia
  • Interests:Cooking

Posted 25 February 2014 - 12:44 PM

Ok Guys and Gals, I'm gonna try and resurect this great thread one more time!  If JW is still around, I would love to see the pics!  All the links to them in the thread are dead links. 

 

Anyone have any other good tips on a DIY head gasket job on the '99 Expy 5.4L?  I'm starting it today!

 

I will try and document it and share the details here!  Wish me luck....I'm goin in!!

 

GH



#15 ONLINE   NickF1011

NickF1011

    Moderator Shmoderator

  • Blue Oval Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,019 posts
  • Joined 13-September 04
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:2011 Edge Sport, 1997 Mustang Cobra
  • Location:Annapolis, MD
  • Interests:-

Posted 25 February 2014 - 12:51 PM

My first tip when working on any vehicle is to hide the swear jar. ;)

Edited by NickF1011, 25 February 2014 - 12:52 PM.

Current Rides:
2011 Ford Edge Sport AWD
1997 Ford SVT Mustang Cobra

Previous Rides:
2004 Mazda 6s
1995 Saturn SL2
1994 Ford Explorer XLT 4x2
1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4
1993 Taurus LX
1987 Taurus GL

#16 OFFLINE   cybervincey

cybervincey

    New BON Member

  • Blue Oval Member
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Joined 14-April 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Current Vehicle:Ford Expedition
  • Location:Philippines
  • Interests:Trucks

Posted 14 April 2014 - 02:50 AM

I just had my 03 Exped's gaskets replaced - the entire set - now the machinist informed me that i need to replace the intake valve and exhaust valves as well inclusive of the valve guides.

 

I don't know if they're pulling or yanking my chains, i had it fixed - gaskets etc - due to an engine misfire, rough on idle. Even replaced the sparks etc. Seems there's a leak to one of the cylinder and now they are attributing the valve as the main culprit and if don't replace it, my problem may again resurface.

 

I'm not much of a mechanic, engines before were way simple.

 

So in any case do i really have to replace all the valves? i hear some knocking on idle, had white smoke one time when i started the engine - bellowed out - after that the exhaust is quite rich... gas smells and looms...

 

They opened up my engine so far and just waiting for me to give them the go signal to replace the valves... Any thoughts?